Stirling Castle Scotland ~ Where the Highlands and Lowlands Meet

Stirling, like a huge brooch,  

clasps Highlands and Lowlands together.

~Alexander Smith

Stirling Castle

First written record of the castle 1107-1115

When Alexander I endows a chapel.

Robert the Bruce 

The Queen Anne Gardens

"There may have been a royal garden here since the 1400s and the flat lawn was turned into a bowling green in the 1620s."

The Queen's apartments in the Renaissance Palace look down over this lovely lawn and garden. 

Inside this lovely old building is a museum timeline of Stirling Castle. The Castle changed hands many times over the years and this exhibition space gives an overview of the bloody struggle between the Scots and English. Many of the most famous names in Scottish history are linked to Stirling including Robert the Bruce, William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots.

As you will see from this post, the weather is constantly changing in Scotland! Sun in the photos above and clouds in the photos below!

The views from Stirling Castle are spectacular!

Mom and Dad with a view!

The history of Stirling is the history of Scotland and its importance cannot be overstated. There are more charming places, and one could argue more lovely and picturesque, but for historical importance you can't get more significant than that of Stirling Castle. Robert the Bruce burned it down, William (Braveheart) Wallace's battle at Stirling bridge ... and the Stuart kings and Queens (including Mary Queen of Scots) who lived at Stirling. There are all sorts of documentaries you can find on Youtube!

The Royal Palace

Renaissance Palace of James V and Mary of Guise 

The Childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots

The palace is considered one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in Britain but the original interiors did not survive. There was a recent 12 million pound restoration which is covered in this brief video.

I wish they aged the look of it a bit and used some of the money to buy antiques. Though the artisans did some beautiful painting and carving, when things are brand new they remind me a bit of Disneyland. I understand they were trying to make it look as it did 500 years ago when it was new but I still think they could have muted the colors a bit.

Royal Quarters

Queen's Presence Chambers

They patterned 7 new tapestries, for the Royal Chambers, after the Unicorn tapestries at the Cloisters Museum. The Cloisters is part of the Metropolitan Museum in New York but way up on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. Anyway, according to records, there was a similar set of works at Stirling. It took two years just to complete the first new tapestry.

This is a great little video about the tapestry project. (It's short!)

The Royal Chapel

1593-4

It was built as one of the first Protestant kirks in Scotland. It is also the last royal building built at the castle. 

James VI built the Chapel for the baptism of his son Prince Henry.

The frieze (below) is beautiful. It was painted in 1628 by Valentine Jenkin.

Like I said, spectacular views!

I loved the contrast of natural stonework and the soft salmon painted walls of the Great Hall ...

The Great Hall

Completed 1503 for James IV

The Grand Battery was built during the first Jacobite rising in 1689. In January 1746 Bonnie Prince Charlie laid siege to Stirling but was not successful. It was basically down hill from there. The whole rebellion ended just a few months later at the battle of Culloden.

Encircling much of the castle were these wonderful walkways! You'd come around the corner to another wonderful view!

In the following photo, you can see a large phallic symbol on the hill in the distance. It is the Wallace Monument. As fascinating and romantic (and inaccurate) as the film Braveheart was, this was as close as we'd ever get to the monument. 

They were closing down the castle at this point and even with teleportation we'd never make it before they closed. As I've said so often, there is never enough time to do everything so you have focus on the things you just have to do! Then you let the rest go!

In 1297 William Wallace and Andrew Moray defeated the English at the very important Battle of Stirling Bridge and retook the castle. Nope, no bridge battle in the movie. The following year the Scots lost the Battle of Falkirk and it went back into the hands of the English. The year after that the castle was besieged again and went back into the hands of the Scots ... 

Anyway, you get the idea. 

About half way from Edinburgh to Inverness is the charming town of Pitlochry. They have their own smaller version of the Edinburgh Festival with a beautiful theater complex. That, however, will have to wait for a future visit!

This time was just dinner stop before driving the rest of the way to Inverness. (We called ahead from the car for a table.)

This place was adorable and had incredible food. I had a delicious greek salad and a wonderful sea bass. We also had rope mussels in white wine and garlic. Mmmmm. I'm getting hungry writing this! Oh, and a wee dram of Scotch. 

It was definitely busier at one point than the photo would imply and this was on a Tuesday. I'm guessing it's packed on the weekends. I found it on Trip Advisor and not surprisingly, after trying it, it had a great rating. The service was also excellent.

Links

Fern Cottage Restaurant in Pitlochry

Stirling Castle

Historic Scotland Explorer Pass

Wallace Monument

Pitlochry Festival Theatre

This is one of my favorite videos I have run across on YouTube, Scottish or otherwise. It's hysterical. Enjoy!

Next post ... Inverness!

The Journey to Inverness ~ Kelpies of Falkirk, Lochs and a Swan

Of all the small nations of this earth,

perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their 

contribution to mankind.

~Winston Churchill

On our 5th day we headed North from Edinburgh. Doune Castle (my last post) was not actually our first stop but a place called Rotho. 

I was bound and determined to find a can of SMIDGE to ward off the midges which are famous for eating people alive in the Scottish summers. Okay, that was a little dramatic but they are like mosquitos but smaller and they can swarm you and make life a bit miserable.

I tried to order some online from the states but couldn't swing it. The best place to find Smidge is at sporting goods places and select pharmacies.

Edinburgh International 

Climbing Arena

Looking on the internet I found a climbing arena that carried it. I had no idea where we were really headed but it turned out to be the largest indoor climbing facility in Europe! It's called the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena. 

It's enormous!!! The climbing area was incredible. On top of that, there were shops, a gym, a pool, a cafe, offices, play areas for kids and a huge sporting goods store with climbing equipment ... and Smidge! 

Smidge is non toxic and doesn't smell like a freshman science class. They also have a midge tracker on their website for those planning on venturing out on a Scottish trail in the warmer months.

I also got some homemade soap at a highland games with an herb that is supposed to protect against midges. They also don't like wind, so if you are going out hiking, a good breeze is also a help. Other than a few bites ,when we weren't wearing the stuff, we were not eaten alive and all was well. 

Here are some quick video clips from my iPhone leaving Edinburgh and on our drive up north! 

It'll preview this post and show you a video clip of this arena.

Can you believe this place? 

A little Scottish Music for you ...

Helix Park

Falkirk, Scotland

Helix Park is beautiful. There are 26 kilometers of paths (some of which sit above ground so you don't sink if it is muddy) and there are all types of native flora and fauna. You can also rent bikes which would be a blast in May or June! Helix North is the greener part of the park.

There is a canal that runs through it with a lock which you see below.

The main reason we were there was to see the Kelpies of Falkirk!!

The Kelpies!
built 2013

My travel journal ...

I was on a mission to see the Kelpies! 

The Kelpies are the largest equine statues in the world and each one weighs 300 tons! These beautiful 30 meter high sculptures were created by Andy Scott. Kelpies are shape shifters who often take the form of horses. These pay homage to the work horses who helped build modern Scotland.

"During the conceptual stages, I visualised the Kelpies as monuments to the horse and a paean to the lost industries of the Falkirk area and of Scotland."

"The original concept of mythical water horses was a valid starting point for the artistic development of the structures, but from the original sketches of 2006 I deliberately styled the sculptures as heavy horses. In early proposal documents I referred to Clydesdales, Shires and Percherons, of the fabled equus magnus of the northern countries.

"I wrote of working horses. Of their role in the progress of modern society, as the powerhouses of the early industrial revolution, the tractors of early agriculture and of course, the first source of locomotion for barges on the Forth & Clyde canal, which The Kelpies now inhabit.

"Falkirk was my father's home town and that inherited association to the town has been one of my driving inspirations. A sense of deep personal legacy has informed my thinking from the outset, with old family connections anchoring me to the project." - Andy Scott

There is a visitors center, a cafe, a coffee kiosk where you can grab a cappuccino and of course a small gift shop.

The Kelpies were definitely worth the trip to Falkirk. With all the things we did that day, my mom said our visit to the Kelpies was her favorite. They really are magnificent! Next time I'd like to go at night when they are all lit up! You can also take a Kelpies tour where you can go inside and they explain how they engineered these incredible sculptures.

This sweet swan was on his own. I was so high on the Kelpies I didn't realize he had a problem. I guess I thought he was molting. Later as I looked at the photos one of his wings looked like it was hanging a bit low. I guess if I'd known I would have been upset not knowing who to call for help!

 

Hope someone helped this sweet laddie!

Falkirk Wheel

Opened in 2002 by Queen Elizabeth

The worlds first and only rotation boat lift.

1,200 tones of steel!

15,000 bolts hand tightened 

In the 1930s there were 11 "staircases" of locks that linked The Forth & Clyde and Union Canals. This took almost a day to get through so they were dismantled in 1933. In 1994 a new concept was presented. A giant wheel as a boat lift! Work started in 1998 for the 84.5 million pound project to link the canals.

"The final design is claimed to have been inspired by a Celtic double headed spear, a vast turning propeller of a Clydebank built ship, the ribcage of a whale and the spine of a fish."

My dad, being an engineer, loved seeing how this thing worked! It's true that this place is pretty incredible but in truth I was ready for lunch.

Fortunately, it has a great visitors center with a cafe. I must admit I was skeptical. Art museums in the States generally have good food and bathrooms but other tourist attractions can be a bit on the crappy side. Scotland? Nice CLEAN bathrooms everywhere we went and great food at the tourist sites! Over and over I was impressed. Remember, we were on a road trip and I was never grossed out with the facilities. Anyway, the food here was great.

Back to the wheel. As my dad pointed out, the engineering is pretty incredible. He read that to run a full cycle of the wheel it only takes the energy you would use to brew a pot of coffee.

Here's how it works

There are many different canal trips you can take on various routes in Scotland. How fun would that be?! 

Here is an arial film by the "Hovering Scotsman" of the Kelpies and the the Wheel. Don't get confused by the mini version of the Kelpies next to the wheel. They are probably less than the height of an L.A. Laker.

Links

The Helix

Kelpies Tour

Edinburgh International Climbing Arena

Falkirk Wheel

Canal Trips

Smidge

Fun stops! After Falkirk, we stopped at Doune Castle. Then we headed up the hill to Stirling Castle and had dinner in the lovely town of Pitlochery. That will be my next post.

Blessings and light!

Doune Castle (Castle Leoch!)

A good tale 

never tires in the telling.

~Scottish Proverb

Doune Castle 

1390

We left the beautiful city of Edinburgh on day 5 of our journey. As we drove past Edinburgh Castle I thought I might burst into tears. It happens when I fall in love with a place and I'm not sure when, if ever, I'll be back. 

Of course, what makes things much easier is when you're excited for your next adventure!

Music for this next adventure is (no surprise) the "Castle Leoch" theme. Anyway, press play!

My spirits brightened quickly as we headed for Doune Castle. If you are a fan of the TV show Outlander you know it as Castle Leoch, the home of the Laird of Clan MacKenzie! I was beside myself. I'm sort of an Outlander fan geek! 

My boyfriend calls this the Mona Lisa Smile photo. I was beyond pleased. Can you tell?

This castle was also used in Monte Python and the Holy Grail and Game of Thrones. I read on one website that Doune Castle was in the Elizabeth Taylor version of Ivanhoe with her husband Robert Taylor as well but I haven't confirmed that.

My travel journal ...

A recognizable exterior from Outlander!

Doune Castle was built for the Duke of Albany, Robert Stewart, in the late 14th century. He was the third son of King Robert and became ruler of Scotland from 1388 until his death in 1420. His son succeeded him but that was only for a few years because James I returned from England (where he was held captive) and then he took over. 

After that, the Kings and Queens of Scotland, for the most part, were using Edinburgh Castle and the Palace at Holyrood. Doune Castle was used as a retreat.

Residents were given the title of Earl of Moray in the late 1500s and Doune was in their possession until it was given over to Historic Scotland. 

***Speaking of Historic Scotland, you can buy a pass from them which worked out to be a great deal for us. Many of their various destinations were on our list including Doune, Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle, Elgin Cathedral and Urquart Castle! You also skip the line in many of these places!

Outlander used this "courtyard" space and put up temporary set structures. You can see on the left side of the photo that there is some restoration going on.

Mrs. Fitz' Kitchen! (Outlander reference!) Actually, they made a full size replica of this kitchen on a sound stage. Often it is not a good idea to bring a huge crew in to film in an old and possibly fragile historic place! 

I took this photo from inside the big kitchen fireplace!

Panoramic of the kitchen ...

The Great Hall

There was an audio tour narrated by Monty Python's Terry Jones and there were a few times the audio commentary was done by Sam Huegan (Jamie Fraser)!

I think this next photo was up another set of stairs. Another huge room!

Below, looking out to where Jamie and Claire rode up on horseback and she saw Castle Leoch for the first time. The audio commentary explained how cold it was filming there for hours and that her wardrobe was only a little white shift! Brrr! I needed my Patagonia jacket and a scarf!

 The Lord's Hall

Renovated in 1883 

Little nooks and crannies ...

The music they used in the background of this video is terrible but it's a good little clip of the producer of Outlander talking about filming at Doune Castle.

Here are two of the scenes from Monte Python and the Holy Grail filmed at Doune Castle.

It was an awesome day! We had about 3 or 4 stops to make on our way to Inverness but this was definitely a highlight!

 For those that haven't seen Outlander ... the season 1 trailer!

links
Doune Castle
Historic Scotland EXPLORER PASS

 Blessings and light

&

Lang May Yer Lum Reek!