By yon bonnie banks and by yon bonnie braes
Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond
Where me and my true love were ever won't to gae
On the bonnie, bonnie bank o' Loch Lomand.
Castle Stalker
the Falconer, 1320
We are winding down on the Scotland posts! This is the second to last! My parents and I left the Highlands and headed south to Glasgow but there was still much to see along the way. Having said that, we did a few "drive-byes" because you just can't do it all.
If you have the time, and are there on the right day, you can reserve a spot on a small boat to take you over the Loch to the castle. If you are a Monte Python fan you might recognize it as "Castle Aaaahhh" from Monte Python and the Holy Grail.
Since we were headed in that direction ... please press play!
There is a little cafe above Castle Stalker that looks out from these views and a gift shop where we did some damage. Haha! My mom bought the most beautiful woolen shawl and I got a few items including a couple of charming little children's books.
There is a whole lot of history with MacDoughalls and Stewarts and I will go ahead and link that below!
A different vantage point of the castle beyond the Scottish thistles.
Dunstaffnage Castle
Argyll and Bute, Western Scotland
"... Stronghold of the MacDougalls, built before 1240 on a huge rock above the Firth of Lorn. Captured by Robert the Bruce in 1308, the castle remained in royal hands until 1469." - Historic Environment Scotland
This is one of the oldest castle ruins in Scotland and was yet another location that was on our Explorer Pass. I highly recommend the pass if you are going to spend some time in Scotland. It was well worth the money. There was no line to get in at Dunstaffnage but being able to bypass lines at Edinburgh and Sterling Castles were a bonus!
My favorite history of this castle was that Flora MacDonald stayed here. Flora is the heroic woman who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape! Here's some more info on that.
"Late in 1746, Dunstaffnage welcomed one of its more famous guests, Flora MacDonald.
This gentle-mannered woman was visiting her brother in South Uist when she met Bonnie Prince Charlie, then fleeing from the Redcoats following his April defeat at Culloden. Flora agreed to help him get away, and dressed him up as her serving girl, ‘Betty Burke’.
The pair crossed to Skye, from where the prince made his escape. But Flora was arrested and brought to Dunstaffnage. She remained there just a few days, before being moved to the Tower of London. She was released the following year."
About 50 meters along a path is the family chapel ruins of Dunstaffnage.
And then we headed off to ...
Inveraray Castle
1746
Ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll
Chief of the Clan Campbell
Across from the parking lot ... Highland Cows! Or rather, Hielan' Coos. Finally!
We'd driven by some "coos" on the Isle of Skye where we couldn't pull over. Before we caught a glimpse in the Borders area but they were quite far away and not so easily photographed. Our time in the countryside was ending and I had almost lost hope in getting a good "paintable" photo.
And here we were outside Inveraray Castle ... and there they were!
I love this guy.
"An Inveraray Castle has been standing on the shores of Loch Fyne since the 1400s, although the impressive castle we know today was inspired by a sketch by Vanbrugh, the architect of Blenheim Palace and Castle Howard in the 1700s."
I must say, it does evoke a romantic, fairy tale image of Cinderella's castle!
I loved the enclosed garden entry and the beautiful drawing room, below. I could totally hang out in there and play one of the two songs I remember on the harp! Ha!
As feminine and lovely as the previous room was, the next room was by contrast, a testosterone filled fantasy!
The Armory Hall
The Saloon
"A remarkably modern living room for its time, the Saloon was chosen by the 5th Duke to be a relaxing area, where guests could have breakfast, play billiards or make music.In the corner is a grand piano where the songwriters Lerner and Loewe composed some of the songs for their musical My Fair Lady, while staying at the Castle."
Robes worn by Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll
4th Daughter of Queen Victoria
At the Coronation of King Edward VII in 1902.
Robes of the Order of the Thistle
Worn by the husband of Princess Louise, The Marquess of Lorne
Later 9the Duke of Argyll
I'm not sure how I feel about the Badgerhead Sporran, below, but it might discourage pickpockets? For those of you unfamiliar with Sporrans they are a small "man bag" that one wears at the waist of a kilt.
Like a ghost story? This next room is the one for you. Although, I'm not sure how I feel about the harp reference! (I started playing in Junior High and one still sits in my living room.)
MacArthur Room
"The ghostly bed in this room is elaborately carved and belonged to the MacArthurs of Loch Awe. Legend has it that a young Irish harpist was murdered by the Duke of Montrose's men in 1644. The bed was moved to the present castle from the old Inveraray Castle and the boy's ghost was so attached to the bed it travelled with it. When a member of the family is about to die, it is said that harp music is heard coming from the room."
The castle has a number of ghosts including the 'Grey Lady', only seen by daughters of a Duke of Argyll, a floating ship or ‘Galley of Lorne' which moves away on the horizon on the death of the Duke and a raucous kitchen maid."
My favorite part of the castle was this next room which is called the "Victorian Room" which was a lovely eclectic living space. Love that carved chair!
"The Victorian Room is a tribute to the marriage between HRH Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria and the Marquess of Lorne, who subsequently became the 9th Duke ... items on display include a porcelain figure of Queen Victoria at her spinning wheel, sculpted by Princess Louise, a talented artist and sculptor. There are also two intriguing pieces of furniture converted from an old coach presented by the Duke of Sutherland to the 8th Duke of Argyll."
"The marriage was considered controversial at the time, as it was the first time a member of the Royal Family had married outside royalty but Queen Victoria wanted new blood in the family and suggested a member of the aristocracy. Princess Louise fell in love with John, Marquess of Lorne and the Queen consented to the marriage, which took place on 21st of March 1871."
O you'll tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road
And I'll be in Scotland afore ye,
For me and my true love will ne-r meet again
On the bonnie, bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond.
Loch Lomond
Loch Loamainn ~ Lake of the Elms
After spending two weeks humming, singing and whistling On the Bonnie Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond, with my parents, driving around Scotland ... we finally made it.
'Twas there that we parted in yon shady glen
On the steep, steep sides o' Ben Lomond
Where deep in purple hue, the hieland hills we view
And the moon comin' out in the gloaming'.
Arriving at Loch Lomond meant we were almost at the end of our journey and only 14 miles outside of Glasgow. Also, of possible interest, it's a fresh water loch and has the largest surface area of any lake in Great Britain. Just in case you were about to ask.
In honor of my folks and all the driving we did around Scotland, here is Deanna Durban (at 18!) singing the old Scottish song. It was in 1940.
Links
The wee birdies sing and the wildflowers spring,
And in sunshine the waters are sleeping.
But the broken heart it kens nae second spring again,
Though the waeful may cease frae their grieving.
O ye'll tak' the high road, and I'll tak' the low road,
And I'll be in Scotland a'fore ye,
But me and my true love will never meet again,
On the bonnie, bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond.
~ first published in 1841
Next up Glasgow!
Blessings and light!