Carceri ~ Eremo di San Francesco ~ Assisi

Eremo delle Carceri is one of my favorite places to visit in Assisi. (Along with San Damiano,) It isn't actually right in town, as you might have gathered. It's up on the side of a mountain, like the sanctuaries I visited in The Rieti Valley. You can walk up from Assisi, people do, but it's a hike. 4 km up a steep road. Seems longer. I however, took a cab on my first trip almost two years ago. I was by myself and had a lot to see. And plus I figured a) I was out of shape and b) I didn't have the time.

This last trip in May, I took my parents. It was another beautiful, chilly day at the hermitage. This time our friend Ted drove us. We'd met Ted and his wife Lyn through Anne Robichaud, our guide in Spello and had been having a great time with them hanging in the "Taverna" set up for the Calendimaggio festival. Ted offered to take us up in his car to Carceri. He and his wife (who are from Australia) were spending several months in Italy, mostly in Umbria.

These photos are a mix of my two trips to Carceri. It is peaceful and lush like the other sanctuaries but this is the one I saw first and it holds a special place in my heart.

.

There are many small gathering places, altars and chapels where people still pray today under the trees, while hearing the birds and leaves rustle overhead. Many pilgrims make crosses of twigs and leave them in prayer and offering along with rosaries and photos and notes. It is monastery today and there are a few friars who live in this beautiful place.

On my first trip two years ago, I saw the cave or "grotto" of brother Ruffino and I was shocked by the tiny, cold, stone crevice, only large enough to slide into on your belly. This is looking from the point of view of the cave.

That first time, I was on a mission to see everything ... so much so that I wasn't taking my time ... taking in the moment. I mean, I was taking in the beauty and everything but I was busy looking for caves, taking pictures, hoping it wouldn't rain and wondering how I would get down the hill since I told the taxi not to wait. Busy, busy mind.

Ruffino had been a nobleman, Saint Claire's cousin and "the shy one." He was one of the first 12 brothers to join Francis and was close to him until he died. He is buried in the Basilica in Assisi along with Leone, Masseo, and Angelo around the tomb of St. Francis. This moves me to tears at the very thought. Being there, it's hard to hold it together.

Then I explored the beautiful pathways ... (all the while taking photos ... lots to do!)

And the cave of Brother Leone, Francis' confessor,

who I also mentioned above, was with St. Francis at Fonte Columbo

and was the brother to whom Francis dictated his "Rule."

And then ... with no one around ...

I found ...

the cave of brother Masseo.

Down the stone steps I went.

It was like finding a hidden treasure ...

I crawled in and I sat.

I looked out, where he had looked

and I sat.

I breathed.

I prayed.

And then I sat for a long time

closing my eyes,

listening,

looking up

And then I sketched. I wanted to take in and remember every detail.

I know it sounds like "doing" but I realized how different it is for me photographing something, than taking the time to sketch. I found that it made me even more present and in the moment. I took time and it was the most "in the moment" I'd felt since I'd arrived on that first trip. It was a beautiful time and was truly a gift ... "being" and really seeing this place and something about my self.

So you see why it became one of my favorite places.

It was a gift.

Take a breath.

Be present.

Be.

Fonte Colombo

Fonte Colombo is called "The Franciscan Sinai." It is considered sacred and was a place Francis loved. He returned here in September of 1223. He fasted on bread and water, prayed alone in his little cave for a month and then dictated his "rule" to brother Leo for his order of friars. This "rule" was approved by Pope Honorius III in November of 1223 and still governs the order of the friars minor today, some 800 years later. (There's a lot more to the story but that's the quick version!)

It is beautiful. It is quiet. On the hillside, it is lush and green and it does feel holy. You feel as though you have stepped into a sacred space. I could have spent the entire day there, (or forever!) meditating, praying and even drawing. I hope one day to go back, when I am in no hurry and just "be."

There is a feeling of safety and peace in this place. I am welling up just thinking about it.

I saw a whole 5 people there outside of my parents and Mauro. 3 were Franciscan monks who probably live there. One was a man we saw in the newer church hanging an icon of the Madonna and trying not to drop her. (My Mom went over and helped him.) And one, other gentleman who was down on one of the pathways.

We had a moment of blue sky when we arrived and then it began to drizzle when I left the Holy Grotto. It felt like mist.

Fonte Colombo

The Cammino di Francesco , or walking path that leads to all the sacred Franciscan sites in the Rieti Valley

(and elsewhere) including Fonte Columbo. Someday ...

The Cloister

The path down to one of the churches Francis loved so much ...

... the Chapel of the Magdalene ...

Brother Leo celebrated Masses here with Francis and to the left

of the altar, in the corner of the window is the "Tau" written

by Francis himself.

The path takes you down to what feels almost like a secret ...

past the beautiful lush nature he loved ...

down steep winding stone steps

to the narrow cave ...

the Holy Grotto of St. Francis

I imagined him here praying in the lush green surroundings ...

in solitude

hearing the sounds of leaves rustling

the cool breeze ...

and flowers coming up through the fallen leaves ...

and I catch a glimpse ...

grace

solitude

peace

&

gratitude

I try to take them with me,

as I continue on my way

Greccio ... The Sanctuary

The day after we arrived in Assisi we hired a driver to take us down to two of St. Francis' sanctuaries in the Rieti Valley. Rieti is South of Assisi and actually in Lazio (not Umbria) and is about 1 1/2 from Rome.

Our driver Mauro ended up being a completely awesome guy, (which is especially great on a day when you are going be in the car for 3 hours or more!) And, topping it off, we all became friends. We discussed everything from Francis to the Italian neorealist cinema of the post war era. He's the coolest.

Greccio Sanctuary is a couple kilometers from the town of Greccio and about 1,000 meters up on Mount Lacerone and looks out over the beautiful Rieti Valley. We had some crazy weather and quite a bit of rain, but even with that it was serene and beautiful.

Francis first came to the Rieti Valley around 1209 and love this place. It is easy to see why. On a return trip he began what is now a yearly tradition around the world.

Christmas Eve in 1223 he created the first ever living nativity or "crèche"

The Chapel of the Crèche

Grotto of the Crib

The Chapel of the crèche was built the year Francis was canonized in 1228,

on the site where that first living nativity took place.

Original Refectory

Cell of St. Francis (where he slept)

Dormitory of St. Bonaventure

The choir

Chapel of St. Francis

It was so beautiful and even with a groups of school kids, pilgrims and nuns, it was still peaceful and felt very sacred. The rain and the nuns singing made it feel even more mystical. I filmed all this as well, so eventually you will all see it.

They still do living nativities here at Christmastime ... wouldn't that be amazing?

For more of the sanctuary's treasures, see below!