Spectacular Morning Walk to San Damiano ~ Assisi

It's my birthday today, and on this day I'm happy to remember my beautiful visit to Assisi, one year ago, and one of my very favorite places on this planet, San Damiano.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Basilica of Santa Chiara of Assisi

1257-1265

It was a spectacular day in Assisi, and perfect for a walk through the olive groves and down to San Damiano. 

I stopped in to the Basilica of Saint Clare, dedicated to her, and where she was laid to rest, in the crypt. Her sister, Saint Agnes of Assisi, is also buried in the basilica, but in one of the chapels. (It's on the left side of the nave, and there have said to be healing miracles by her grave, which is why, I think, she was also made a Saint.)

No photos are allowed in any part of the church, including the chapel that holds the San Damiano Cross.

The San Damiano Cross was brought up to the basilica, from the monastery, after Clare's death, by her community of Poor Clares, the Franciscan order that she founded. 

Above, you can see the right hand side of the façade, looks different from the rest. It was originally used, in Francis's time, as a hospital, school (which Francis attended) and the original Chapel of San Giorgio. Now it is the Chapel of the Crucifix, where the San Damiano Cross hangs. (More on the cross later.)

Porta Nuova Gate

The "New Gate" 

built in the 14th Century

The walk is stunning, with beautiful views of the countryside, below Assisi. Though it isn't that far, it is downhill, so wear comfy shoes.

We have been called to heal wounds,

unite what has fallen apart

and to bring home those who have lost their way.

~ Francis of Assisi 

On the way down, there is a very small chapel, that unfortunately, I don't know anything about!

Well, I do know that it's been locked every time I have walked past it.

I was able to peak through the locked gates, and through a tiny, open, square in the door, and and take this photo.

Be praised, my Lord, through all your creatures,

especially through my lord Brother Son,

Who brings the day; and you give light through him.

And he is beautiful and radiant in all his splendor!

Of you, Most High, he bears the likeness.

~ Francis of Assisi 

From Canticle of the Creatures

The sign on gnarled tree says to treat yourself to something good and that here you can find the most recent harvest oil! Not sure if it was at the closest house, or what. 

A single sunbeam

is enough to drive away many shadows.

~ Francis of Assisi

Looking out toward Santa Maria degli Angeli, below ...

It must be Brother Leo transcribing the "rule" of the Franciscan Order, from Francis, both seated below the beautiful mosaic.

Almost there ...

My selfie with Francis …

Saint Clare

San Damiano

1205

Altar in the courtyard with Mary, baby Gesù, Francis and Clare ...

When you enter the church, which still a convent, you aren't allowed to take photos, and you are supposed to visit in silence, or at least be very very quiet.

You enter through the Chapel of Saint Jerome, with frescoes by Tiberio D'Assisi (16th Century) then through another tiny chapel with a wooden crucifix by Fra Innocenzo da Palermo (1637)

My sketch detail of Fra Innocenzo's crucifix
graphite on paper

Photo, below courtesy of Wikipedia, public domain photos.
Nave of the main church of San Damiano

What hangs in the church is a replica. As I mentioned, the original cross is up at the Basilica of Saint Clare. The significance of the cross is that when Francis was roaming the area, trying to find himself, he came upon a dilapidated San Damiano church and when he prayed to this cross he heard the word of God. It said to him,"Francis, do you not see that my house is falling into ruin? Go and repair it for me."

San Damiano Cross

This was a huge turning point for Francis, and years he would write his famous Canticle of the Creatures here, in Clare's garden, while she and the sisters nursed him in sickness. 

When Clare left her old life of nobility, and decided to follow Francis, they ended up handing this place over to her (I'm sort of giving you the Cliff's notes here…) and this is where she lived out her life, until her death in 1194 at the age of 59.

Clare's dormitory, San Damiano

Pastel on Paper

Above, is the dormitory where she and the original sisters slept and in the far right corner, a candles burns. This is where miracles occurred and spot where she passed. Many people come to pray for miracles of healing. It is quite bare, always silent and very very peaceful.

We become what we love, 

and who we love, shapes what we become.

~ Clare of Assisi

The beautiful cloister ...

You might be able to make out a sculpture, of Francis, close to the center of the photo, below. From inside, you see it out a window. It is the window where Clare saw Francis for the last time, as the brothers carried his body, after his death, past her window and up to the Chapel of San Giorgio, in Assisi.

This is an incredible place, where Francis spent time both rebuilding the church and convalescing in Clare's garden and Clare spent decades of her life cloistered here. 

There aren't a lot of tourists, and you really feel the history and presence of these two souls … these two Saints. I can't imagine a visit to Assisi, without spending time here. It feels truly blessed and sacred.

To see my springtime post of San Damiano, on this blog, click here.

To read more and see photos of the interior of the Basilica of Santa Chiara, click here.

For more on the San Damiano Cross, click here.

For more on the convent of San Damiano, with more interior photos, 

click here.

He who works with his hands 

is a laborer

He who works with his hands and his head

is a craftsman

He who works with his hands, his head and his heart

is an artist.

~ Francis of Assisi

Blessings and light!

Chiesa Nuova and a Walk in the Rain ~ Assisi

It was December 10th, last year, and it had begun to rain in Assisi.

I decided to take a walk, and to make my way down Chiesa Nuova.

Chiesa Nuova

built in 1651

On the presumed site of the birth of Saint Francis

and his family home.

Piazza Chiesa Nuova

Below, a sculpture of the parents of Saint Francis of Assisi.

His father, Pietro di Bernardone, is said to have chained his son and locked him up, out of anger and frustration, after Francis started living a life of poverty and, by his father's standards, was acting crazy. The story goes, that his mother set him free.

At some point, Francis also sold off some of his father's textiles, for money to repair the church of San Damiano, which also did not go over well. (This is a great understatement, as he hauled him off, in front of the town, to the Bishop Palace.)

Franciscan Choir of Assisi … the bells come first. 

This spot, "by tradition," is where his father is said to have locked up Francis.

Remember, it was Christmastime, and little manger scenes, or "precipe," had popped up, all over Italy. I thought this one, especially charming.

Presepe Napoletano nella Chiesa Nuova

The whole purpose of life
is to make God a reality.
~ Hazrat Inayat Khan

A door through the back of the church ...

... leads you to where Francis' father had the warehouse, for his business.

It was a Monday and it was so quiet. The big "festa" was over, and there was only the sound of rain.

Francis' father's warehouse room ...

One of my favorite art pieces, depicting Saint Francis and Saint Claire. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the artist's name but isn't it beautiful?

The mystic has one moral 
and that is love.

~Pir-o-Murshid Inayat Khan

Pax et Bonum

or

Pace e Bene

These words are seen everywhere, in Assisi, and in other Franciscan places, including churches, with the latin Pax et Bonum. 

It translates to "Peace and Good(ness) be with you!" and is what Francis would proclaim as he'd enter a new town, to which he would preach, with great charisma. 

… and then back out onto the streets of Assisi …

Out in the rain, I made my way toward the Basilica of San Francesco. 

excerpts from 

Song of The Rain 

by Kahlil Gibran

I am dotted silver threads dropped from heaven

By the gods. Nature then takes me, to adorn

Her fields an valleys.

I am beautiful pearls, plucked from the 

Crown of Ishtar by the daughter of Dawn

To embellish the gardens.

When I cry the hills laugh;

When I humble myself the flowers rejoice;

When I boy, all things are elated.

My Mom and I have spent several evenings, online, looking at properties in Italy, including Assisi. There was a beautiful little place built prior to 1500, in this neighborhood, that was amazing. I figured out the general area on Google street maps. (Gotta have a little fantasy in life!)

The field and the cloud are lovers 

And between them I am a messenger of mercy.

I quench the thirst of the one;

I cure the ailment of the other.

… I emerge from the heart of the sea and

Soar with the breeze. When I see a field in

Need, I descend and embrace the flowers and

The trees in a million little ways.

I touch gently at the windows with my 

Soft fingers, and my announcement is a

Welcome song. All can hear, but only

The sensitive can understand.

… I am the sigh of the sea;

the laughter of the field;

The tears of heaven.

So with love -

Sighs from the deep sea of affection;

Laughter from the colorful field of the spirit;

Tears from the endless heaven of memories.

~ Kahlil Gibran

from Song of the Rain

Love alone is the fountain

from which all virtues fall

as drops of sparkling water.

~Hazrat Inayat Khan

My favorite place in Assisi, strange as it sounds, is the tomb of Saint Francis, under the lower basilica. The energy is peaceful, yet somehow alive with an intensity that I cannot find words for. It's solemn in the room, but somehow the opposite is true, as well. A peaceful joy.   

The candles are always glowing and you can walk around the tomb. In the four corners of the room, four of his brothers were buried, but not until 1932. They were Brother Angelo, Brother Masseo, Brother Rufino, and Brother Leo. 

A woman, Jacopa di Settesoli, a very close friend of Francis and a widow, is buried near the entrance, when you come down the stairs. She was an honorary brother and he would call her "Brother Jacopa."

In a week, this will all have been a whole year ago! I can't believe it. I miss Assisi but in a way, it's always with me. 

Next up … a place called Paradiso.

Blessings and light!