Capuchins and Santa Maria del Popolo!

It was my last full day in Rome. The sun was shining and I still had so much I wanted to do. That night I was having dinner with my new friend Dawn (the American who married an Italian man and had two kids) and her family. This would be after a few last minutes stops and a trip to the modern art museum.

My friend Caroline knew where I was staying and told me I was right around the corner from something I just had to see. 

The Convent of the Capuchins

Il Convento dei Cappuccini

The Capuchins are an order of Franciscans. Pope Urban XIII commissioned Santa Maria della Concezione, in 1626, for his brother Cardinal Antonio Barberini, who was a Capuchin. There is a monastery, church, museum, and famous crypt, and it's just off Piazza Barbarini. 

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini

Architect Antonio Casoni

built 1626 - 1631

There are famous paintings by Guido Reni and others, in the church, but unfortunately the church was closed for renovations.

Fortunately, what I was really there to see was the famous crypt of the Capuchins. The bones of over 4,000 Capuchin friars, collected from the 16th to 19th century, were made into incredible mosaics and decorative displays ... even chandeliers! There are also rooms that utilize mostly a particular bone ... like femurs.

You aren't supposed to take photos, so these are the postcards I bought. I couldn't find a photographers name on them.

Another postcard ... 

Here is a short video I found on Youtube that shows more of the crypt and explains the origins of the name of our old Italian favorite, "Cappuccino."

It all seems strange, but there is a beauty to it, as well ... and messages about time, and the fragility of life. A lot of messages and meanings can be taken from this place, but one that is written in the crypt reads ...

"What you are now, we once were;

what we are now, you shall be."

The museum was full of relics and artifacts belongning to various Franciscan Saints. There was a painting by Caravaggio of St. Frances in Prayer, or it was a copy of an original? It was all unclear. The "original" is housed at the Piazza Barberini. Either way ... it's a beautiful painting!

Here is the Piazza Barberini version ...

St. Frances in Prayer

Michelangelo Merisi called Caravaggio

In order to go to Maxxi, the modern art museum, I would be taking a tram North from just above Piazza del Popolo. Since I was right there, how could I not stop in to Santa Maria del Popolo to visit the Caravaggios, Berninis and Pinuricchios?

Santa Maria del Popolo

1472-1477

Façade by Bernini

Apse by Bramante

Della Rovere Chapels

Frescoes by Pinturicchio 

Nativity Fresco 

Pinturicchio 

Cappella Basso della Rovere (?)

I think this is the tomb of Cardinal Giovanni Basso della Rovere, made in 1483 by the school of Andrea Bregno.

This is an interesting sculpture ...

Cappella Cybo

by Carlo Fontana 1682 - 1687

The Assumption and Four Doctors of the Church

by Carlo Maratta

Chapel of the Visitaion

designed by Bernini

The Visitation by Giovanni Maria Morandi

Angels by Ercole Ferrata and Arrigo Giardé

The Chigi Chapel

Designed by Raphael

Daniel (see the lion behind him?)

by Gian Lorenzo Bernini

Habakkuk and the Angel 

Gian Lorenzo Bernini

God the Father in Benediction 
Chigi Chapel Dome mosaic by Venetian artist, 
after drawings by Raphael

There are two amazing paintings by caravaggio in the church, in the Cerasi Chapel. The Conversion of St. Paul and the Crucifiction of St. Peter. There was a guard standing by, and you can't take photos, unfortunately.  Here is a video/slideshow of all the various Caravaggios in Rome, including the two I couldn't photograph here, at Santa Maria del Popolo.

OH! And here is Piazza del Popolo and a little of its history, in this Youtube video. It's worth a look!

To read more about the Capuchins, from their official page, click here.

To see pictures of the opening of the capuchin museum, click here.

After getting my fill of the Baroque, it was time to head up to the ultra modern Maxxi, then dinner with friends. The following morning I'd be off to Assisi in Umbria.

Hope you are enjoying the Italy photos. I never imagined I'd still be posting my Rome pictures in July!

Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.

~E.B. White

Blessings and light!

Have an amazing wonderful weekend!

Caravaggio 2010 Rome

Caravaggio at the Scuderie del Quirinale ends on June 13th and you would have to travel around the world from Dublin to Missouri in order to see these works. If you are in that neck of the woods and you can get over there, you definitely want to get your tickets ahead or you will have a nightmare line ahead of you!

It's busy in there and people are listening to the very long commentary on their listening devices but as so as they are done they clear out. Be patient.

O.K. so Caravaggio? He was totally nuts, but the man could paint. Caravaggio was sort of a running theme for our stay in Rome. We saw about 25 at the big exhibit at the Scuderie del Quirinale, 2 at Santa Maria del Popolo, 3 at San Luigi Francesi, and another couple at the Palazzo Barberini and the Capitoline Museum. He sort of took over, and though many of them are a little creepy, others are incredibly beautiful and moving, and all of them are just ...extraordinary.

Frankly it made me want to come home and paint all my canvases black and go from there, although I doubt that was his method! It's all about the light, the facial expressions and his finding places to use red fabric! Well, that is my little non-academic opinion, but there you have it.

St. John the Baptist 1604

Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art,

Kansas City, Missouri

Isn't John beautiful?! There were three John the Baptists in this exhibition alone. He did at least eight, not counting the three great narrative scenes of his death. This is my favorite. In person his face is so pensive, sad and contemplative. The shadows around is eyes draw you in. My Mom and I were standing there just mesmerized.

Cattura di Cristo nell'orto

Dublin, National Gallery of Art

This large piece is unbelievable. There is so much movement and chaos and yet Christ's face is so incredibly beautiful and at peaceful but heartbreaking at the same time. I don't know if I will ever make it to Dublin, so I felt incredibly blessed to see it. It was a jaw-dropper. I just can't get over his face!

This next piece is not in the exhibit. It's an incredible freebie! There are three huge Caravaggios at the beautiful church San Luigi dei Francesi near Piazza Navona. (Just east of the North end!) This is my favorite with it's swirling fabric and composition, his use of light ... and St. Matthew's wonderful face ...

St. Matthew and the Angel

Contarelli Chapel

San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome

The catalog for the exhibition was amazing, with great details of the paintings but alas, too heavy to carry. However, my Capricorn Dad went back to the hotel, did a little research and it will soon be available on Amazon.com for you Caravaggio lovers out there. Never the same as seeing them in person, of course, but still beautiful and inspiring.

Hope you have a peacefully inspiring day!

Blessings and light!