Beautiful Sant'Ivo ~ Rome!

Do you have a favorite architect? For me, visiting San Carlo alle quattro Fontane made my choice pretty clear, and then Saint Ivo sealed the deal. Francesco Borromini!

Sant'Ivo is not the easiest place to visit. From what my online research told me, it seemed to be open, only on Sunday mornings, from 9 to noon! Within that short window, on Sundays, you can rest assured that there are services going on, as well. Timing is everything.

I was having a little trouble waking up, after my night on the town with Inta, but I threw my clothes on and headed Southwest toward Piazza Navona. The church is at the south end of the piazza and a block or so east of it. The weird thing is, that the church wasn't even on a couple of my maps. But when you know what you're looking for ... 

via

Thank you Google Maps!

The big grey vertical on the left is Piazza Navona. The big white circle, touching the right edge, is the Pantheon. In the, almost dead center, is Sant'Ivo ... see the horizontal rectangle with the little round circle? The little round circle is the church, and the space in the rectangle is the courtyard. You enter on first street parallel to Piazza Navona, to the east. This took a little help to figure out on the ground. After all, it looks a lot different from the street!

In the photo below, just right of center, you can see a little information booth to the right of van. I asked the gentleman inside, who I am sure gets this question all the time, where I could find the entrance to Sant'Ivo. He pointed around the corner, to the left of the building with the flags.

Open only on Sundays? Not on all maps? Don't they know that every art history class, that covers the Baroque, talks about the this church, with it's convex and concave façade, and it's groovy spiral spire? Come on!  

Anyway, here's a bit of Italian Baroque music to go with the architecture ...

Finally! Through a big door and out onto a courtyard ... the first view of the famous façade...

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza

Francesco Borromini

1642-60

The Palazzo della Sapienza Courtyard and Sant'Ivo

The church (center) was build for the Palazzo della Sapienza, which was the seat of the University of Rome until 1935 (founded in 1303.) In 1500, Giacomo Della Porta started work to centralize the structures and bring it all together. He created the two story colonnade you see to the right and left of the church, in the photo above. 

Giacomo died before finishing the project so it fell, thirty years later, to Francesco Borromini, who designed the church we are about to enter!

The altar and Church are dedicated to Saint Ivo or St. Ives, patron saint of lawyers and abandoned children. To find out more about St. Ivo (1253-1303) "Advocate of the Poor", click here and here.

Sorry about the photo of the painting. I never could get a good shot of it!

Altar by Giovan Battista Contini

Sant'Ivo, Leone, Pantaleone, Luca e Caterina d'Alessandria in Gloria di Angeli, 

Painted by Andrea del Cortina

The pilasters draw your eye up to the beautiful dome ...

Check out the little cherubim above the windows and around the center.

Not to get distracted, but how cute is this chair? And, I love the floors!

Borromini created incredible drama, which the Baroque is known for, but without having to cover everything in gold gilt. He let the play of light create the drama. It spills in through the windows, over the beautiful, three dimensional details, and across convex and concave surfaces. Bellissima! 

Talent hits a target no one else can hit;
Genius hits a target no one else can see.
~Arthur Schopenhauer 

This girl sat down to sketch. I was jealous but I new my time was limited!

As I mentioned, in the St. John Lateran post, Borromini was a fan of putti or cherubim. I'm not sure of the difference but basically, it's a head with wings. And, in this case, they are very cute!

To love beauty 
is to see light.
~Victor Hugo

There's another one, below, peaking over the ledge! 

I was right about my time being limited. About 10 minutes after I entered the church, several Italians without cameras were making their way into the pews. Crap! Oops, sorry, we're in church. Anyhow, I took a bunch of pictures, like my life depended on it and then was escorted out, along with about 15 other touristi. 

This poor guy, above, was in charge of letting in the actual patrons and keeping out the folks with cameras. I'm guessing he goes through this every Sunday, because he was very good at his job and knew who was there for mass and who wasn't.

When I got outside, I realized that not only was my camera battery dying, but I'd run off without my spare and it was only 11am! Thank goodness for my iPhone. 

While I was fiddling around with my camera, a nice Kiwi lady was trying to communicate with the gentleman about when she would be able to get into the church. "Mezzogiorno ... meno un quarto Signora." My Italian was now coming in handy and fortunately, you learn "time" in Italian 101. I looked at my watch, "Quarantacinque minuti?" "Si," he said.  "O.K.," I told the nice lady from New Zealand, "we've got 45 minutes to hang around, but it's totally worth it."

In the above shot there are lion heads, in the little roundels, representing Pope Sixtus V and the Montalto family. In fact, there are symbols of popes and their families represented all over, if you know where to look. All of which, contributed funds for the building. The Dragon was Gregory XIII. Pope Paul V and the Borghese were the Dragon and the eagle ... Innocent X and the Pamphilij were the Dove, olive branch and so on. 

My photo, taken by a sweet couple of boys from Eastern Europe. 

Courtyard of Giacomo della Porta

Love the stones ... wouldn't that look so pretty in a garden? ;)

In the following photo, if you look in the little roundels above the 3rd floor windows, you can see the Barberini Bees. (Pope Urban VIII)

After visiting with my new friends from Eastern Europe and New Zealand, and taking some photos, it was time to head back into the church, which stayed open for about 15 minutes before closing, presumably until the following Sunday. (If someone has other information, please share!)

A few more angles with my iPhone, and then I just took in the space ... soaring and beautiful! 

We live in a wonderful world 

that is full of beauty,

charm and adventure.

There is no end to the adventures that we can have

if only we seek them with our eyes open.

~Jawaharlol Nehru

Ciao Sant'Ivo! Ci vediamo ... spero!

Later that day, after another visit to Piazza Navona, I went to Pizza Zaza, where I'd eaten on my last two trips to Rome (see the white canvas sun shield, behind the folks walking toward us? That's Zaza.) Well, look up and see what had been right around the corner, the whole time! How could I have missed that wonderful lantern and spire? I guess that's what happens, when you have your face in a pizza!

For more information on Sant'Ivo, check out Sacred Destinations and for a great New York Times article entitled Borromini's Rome, click here. (It discusses both churches of St. Ivo and San Carlo and gives visitor info on these and other works by Borromini.)

This guy cracks me up! Check it out!  ... It's a video about the rivalry between Borromini and Bernini with a funny Italian dude. Great shots of Rome and the buildings, including my favorites! ;)

Warm wishes, my friends, 

for a blessed and peaceful

Passover 

and 

Easter

Have a beautiful weekend!

St. John Lateran, the Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum

If you are what you should be, 

you will set the world ablaze!

~Saint Catherine of Sienna

Arcibasilica Papale di San Giovanni in Laterno

The Papal Archbasilica of St. John Lateran

It's huge and it's the first of four Papal Basilicas of Rome. It's the official seat of the Bishop of Rome, who also happens to be the Pope. So, for that reason, as a cathedral, it ranks above all other churches in the Catholic Church ... even St. Peter's! (Thanks Wikipedia!)

Strange to be writing this right now, realizing it's currently a church without a bishop! 

I took the metro system down there, because it was way too far to walk. I'd already walked around that morning, been to Sant'Andrea delle Fratte (to see Bernini's angels), snacked on some sort of salami I'd gotten at the little market, scarfed down a power bar  ... and I was off to St. John! 

I knew it would be big ... but it was HUGE. In the photo above, that I actually took on my way out, you can sort of see a silhouette of a person, next to the small, middle/left column. Yes, he's tiny. That's how big the Basilica is!

OK, here is some Italian Baroque to go with the post ...

This photo below is in the portico, before entering the basilica. Everyone say hello to Emperor Constantine! 

Constantine, Roman 4th Century

And this, below, is the nave. Imagine that there are also two big aisles on either side of this and then huge chapels off of those! I took so many pictures, I could have done several posts, just on this church. At one point, I narrowed it down and there were still 54 photos! I edited way down from that, so I guess you'll just have to visit someday! 

The original church was consecrated in 324! The Laterani family had owned the property and after somehow getting on the outs with Rome, had it confiscated. Emperor Constantine, who you just said hello to, gave the property to the church and allowed the Pope to set up shop here, after 312. O.K., "set up shop" isn't exactly the term but you get the picture. 

In case you're curious, the church measures 130 x 54 meters. (426 by 177 feet or ... 142 yards by 59 yards)

The current ceiling, you see here, was built in the 1700s.

Popes lived in the old Lateran palace next door, until pope Clement V, when the whole "Avignon drama" happened. He moved to Avignon, in what is now modern day France, in 1309. At least, it all seemed pretty dramatic in art history class. You might want to read up on that. Anyway, after that, when the papacy came back to Rome, it was to the Vatican Palace.

The church was built and rebuilt over the centuries, due to earthquakes, fires and upgrades. One of the big remodels was commissioned by Pope Innocent X, in 1649, when the whole place was ready to collapse. Fortunately, he had our old friend Francesco Borromini, who did work on Sant'Andrea delle Fratte and my personal favorite San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, to turn to!

The niches, which Borromini created in the nave, were later filled by huge sculptures of the Evangelists and Apostles, but not until during the time of Pope Clement XI. (1701-1721) 

Saint Phillip (check out his foot on the head of the dragon!) by Giuseepe Mazzuoli, 1715

Above each statue you can see a relief, depicting biblical scenes, done in the 1600s. Above each relief, are small oval paintings of the prophets. 

St. Matthew by Comillo Rusconi, 1715
Relief - Christ entering Limbo by G.F. Rossi

The Gothic high altar is quite beautiful and ornate, with lovely frescos and gilding. It was made in 1367 by Giovanni di Stefano. (Don't worry, there won't be a quiz!) In that area above,  that looks a bit like a birdcage, there is a relic chamber with the heads of St. Peter and Paul, and little statues of them. ... Although, I thought Peter was under St. Peter's ... but that must be his body?

Anyway, moving on! Isn't it so pretty?!

Frescos by Barna di Siena

Looking back from next to the altar, an incredible view ...

Organ designed by Luca Lasi and G.B Montano

1598

 

Frescoed scenes of the Life of Constantine

Late 1500s by Pomeracio, Paris Nogari and G.B. Ricci

The Altar of the Blessed Sacrament, below, is said to enshrine the table from the last supper. I'm not sure how they figured this out, or who saved the table from going to a flea market, but they sure did a nice job on the shrine! 

So, make this story even wilder ... the columns were taken from the Temple of Jupiter on the Capitol, which had been recast in bronze, from the prows of Cleopatra's ships. (Courtesy of a battle with Emperor Augustus.) Crazy right? I love Rome.

Seriously, everything has a story here.

Altar of the Blessed Sacrament 

by Pier Paolo Olivieri 1600 

 

The floor was from the 14th century and paid for by the Colonna family and completed in 1425. Isn't it amazing?! I think that 's the family crest of the Colonna family, in the middle. 

I would venture to guess that Michelangelo's great friend Vittoria Colonna (a renaissance poet and writer) was from that same powerful family. She had some serious pull ... but that's another mini-series.

Borromini was smart to leave the floor. Just gorgeous.

Out the left side of the church, if you pay the 8 or so Euro for the headphones, you can go into the cloister as well, which dates to the 13th century. All around the cloister are Roman artifacts. I couldn't resist.

If I remember correctly, this chair was the first, literal seat of the pope but I'm guessing he had a pillow. Isn't it beautiful?

Here's a relic story for you. That red slab of stone, below? Apparently, Roman soldiers were placing bets, or playing a game of dice, for who would get Jesus' robes. I am going by memory, so I might be a little off, but basically that was the gist of it. 

I walked into this room, off the cloister. The photo's a little blurry, but I couldn't resist the Roman artifacts and vending machines together!

If you head across the street from the basilica, there is a building that houses something pretty amazing, and very important, to pilgrims who come from all over the world.

The Scala Santa

For me prayer is a surge of the heart, 
it is a simple look towards Heaven,
it is a cry of recognition and of love,
embracing both trial and joy.
~St. Therese of Lisieux

The Scala Santa, or Holy Staircase, is at the location that was the original papal palace from the time of Constantine, to the Pope's time in Avignon.

The stairs were brought here by Constantine's mother, Helena, from Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem in about 326. The 28 marble steps (now encased in wood) were climbed by Jesus, before he was crucified. There are places where there is glass, in place of the wood, in order to see his blood stains on the stairs. 

Pilgrims climb the steps, on their knees, in deep contemplation of the Passion. It was so moving to see all of these people move slowly up the steps. You can see the stories of Jesus, frescoed on the walls and the crucifiction at the top of the stairs.

These marble sculptures, are to the left an right of the Holy Steps

To the left and right of the Holy Steps, are stairways you can use to ascend on your feet, which is what I did. This takes you to the Sancta Sanctorum Chapel, which is directly behind that fresco at the top of the stairs.

Sancta Sanctorum

Above the altar it reads 

Non est in toto sactior orbe locus, 

There is no holier place in all the world.

There is more than one chapel in the building but this one is the oldest, and considered most holy. The Holy of Holies, it is called. 

I had to be escorted in and the lady stayed with me until I was ready to leave. I took my time and was waiting for a tour group to leave, so I could get up to the altar without getting in the way of their view. It never happened, and my companion told me to just go for it and get up there ... so I did.

Above the altar ...

9th Century Mosaic 

Part of the reason it is considered so holy, is that it was the place used as the papal relic treasury, and it held a multitude of important relics, some of which are still there. It was also the personal chapel to the early Popes.

 Cosmati Frescoes in the 12th Century.

As I sat looking up at the ceiling and around the walls of the chapel, the Frescoes reminded me of the basilica of Saint Francis, in Assisi. The guide, for the tour group, was speaking Italian but I heard her mention the basilica in Assisi and it's artist, Giotto, and something about it being popular and one influencing the other. It was a little frustrating getting bits and pieces so I just sat back and tried to take it all in!

After that, I decided to go back in to San Giovanni for one more look. Here you can see one of the long aisles, that are to the left and right of the nave. There are big chapels off these large aisles, as well. The place is huge.

You can see something here that screams Borromini, so I'm guessing they were from his time working on the place. See the little serifs or cherubim, above the arches?  This is something he used a lot of in his work and I love them!

One more view ...

 

Ceiling above the altar by Taddeo Landini, 1592
Preserved by Francesco Borromini 

I was standing just behind the altar so it's upside down, but if you look closely, you'll see the bust of Christ in the middle.

I turned to the statue of Saint Peter with his keys and took this photo, below. I looked down at my digital screen and saw the light. Literally! ... right toward his raised hand! Wow.

St. Peter by Pierre Monnot, 1706

Thank goodness for the Internet, to fill in the memory gaps and info I didn't pick up while I was there.  Much of the info I needed, I got from Churches of Rome Wiki,  Wikipedia , and Sacred Destinations which you can check out, if you haven't already had enough! ;) Great resources if you are planning to travel, as well.

This is pretty cool too ... you can do a virtual visit of San Giovanni on the Vatican Website ... see all the chapels and use your mouse to move around each room. After hitting the link, click on one of the places in the left hand column, to choose a room or space in the church. :)

Here's a little BBC slideshow of the Restoration of the Frescoes in the Scala Santa, if you are interested.

Sorry about the watermark signature on my photos. Hope they're not too annoying. It's a different world out there now and it just has to be done.

Pray, Hope and Don't Worry.

~St. Pio of Pietrelcino

Hope you all have a wonderful week. 

My next post is food and witches! ;)

Blessings and light!