Showing posts with label Outlander. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Outlander. Show all posts

Sunday, April 14, 2019

Glasgow About Town ~ Street Art, Shopping and a Cathedral

"... City! I am true son of thine;

Ne’er dwelt I where great mornings shine

Around the bleating pens;

Ne’er by the rivulets I strayed,
And ne’er upon my childhood weighed
The silence of the glens.
Instead of shores where ocean beats,
I hear the ebb and flow of streets. … "
~GLASGOW by Alexander Smith

The Creation Window by Francis Spear
Glasgow Cathedral


Music for the Glasgow! 

Glasgow


We arrived in the evening to our funky little place in Glasgow. It was a young lady's artsy flat a few floors up. Every time we left the place we had trouble getting back in and we had to drag our stuff up maybe 3 or 4 flights from the underground parking. It was not exactly a swanky part of town but, to me, it made things interesting and I loved it!


Our funky little place ...


We were very hungry by the time we got settled and ended up walking a mile or so to an Indian restaurant that the pub across the way recommended. We got there pretty late and we might have been the only ones there but it was delicious!!

I am going to have to hunt down the name of the restaurant. I usually keep track of those things but I was so tired and stuffed by the time we left. Bonus was that being in an apartment we were able to put our copious amounts of leftovers in the fridge.



The next day was gorgeous but we were tired and had things to take care of. My dad and I found a shipping place to send hiking boots, sneakers and rain gear home before heading to Venice, which would presumably be drier. This would be a false assumption. 

If you are gone long enough and doing enough shopping this is definitely a good option before continuing on to another destination. You may also have different wardrobe requirements for your next stop!

The best thing about taking the car back to the rental place was our cab driver. We had a few that day and I've decided Glaswegian cabdrivers are my favorite cabbies on the planet. Hilarious and friendly storytellers with amazing personalities. I would go back just to ride around town!


Glasgow Cathedral

"The first stone that built Glasgow Cathedral was dedicated in the presence of King David I in 1136. The present building was consecrated in 1197. Since that same period the Cathedral has never been unroofed and the worship of God has been carried out within its walls for more than 800 years."
I might have been interested in going to the Cathedral for less that spiritual reasons. The truth is that it was an Outlander location. It was the hospital where Claire worked in Paris, in season 2. 

The Millennium Window


The Millennium Window was unveiled on 3rd June, 1999 by H.R.H. The Princess Royal.
"The glasspainter selected was Mr. John K. Clarkwho was a student and then lecturer at The Glasgow School of Art. His studio is in Germany. Progress was carefully monitored by Historic Scotland. The theme that was agreed with the Donors was GROWTH. As the project was mainly funded by three Glasgow schools this is a highly appropriate theme."

It turned out that it was a beautiful gothic cathedral with incredible stained glass windows and gorgeous woodwork.








We hoped to make it to Kelvingrove Museum but because of some mixup we waited forever for our cab. At that point, it was too late to get into the museum. I think you have to get there a full hour before they close. That is the case with many museums and monuments in Scotland.


When we finally got our next hilarious cab driver we had him drop us in an area with some cool street art and murals. There is actually a Glasgow Mural Trail Map! I'll link that below.

From Artists Rogue-one and Art Pistol, Wind Power, which can be found on Mitchell Street. 


Below, a mural on Mitchell Street by artist Rogue-One.


I loved my red raincoat. A funny Scotsman compared me to a phone booth whilst wearing my red hat and coat. I can totally see that.

Below, also on Mitchell Street, mum and dad being picked up by a giant! Mural by artist Smug.



After that, we ended up in a very cool pedestrian only shopping area on Buchanan Street, in Central Glasgow, called Prince's Square.

I was able to pick up some makeup and ended up in a fabulous clothing store. There were so many beautiful things but I narrowed it down to a beautiful white blouse! I don't know what I expected Glasgow to be like but it wasn't this. I figured I'd like it but I suppose I thought the whole entire city would very industrial. 


Me, below, in front of artist Klingatron's (James Klinge) Panda at Gordon Lane.




"The original buildings consisted of a 4 storey merchant square built in yellow sandstone and completed in 1841. The then owner, James Campbell, was knighted by Queen Victoria and later became Lord Provost of Glasgow. In celebration of the birth of the Prince of Wales, later to become Edward VII, he named his new building Princes Square." 

The area is a great example of urban renewal done in a beautiful way. People were definitely out and about and enjoying themselves!

We found a large pub for our last dinner in Scotland. There was a football (soccer) game on and live music. Though I don't remember what I ate, I do remember I had one last Scotch. 

Scotch in scribbles ...


I've been blogging about this Scotland adventure since the beginning of 2018! This is my 26th post of Scotland! Perhaps a wee bit excessive but I loved it so much that I didn't want to leave anything out. Alas, there were probably 14,000 or more photos so it was tough to edit. I tried to include my art and some of what I was inspired to paint for my solo show last December.

Links

for more Scottish poetry go to 

After our incredible time in Scotland we went to the Veneto area of Italy which was also wonderful. We were able to meet up my niece, my Aunt and Uncle. This was all in August/September of 2017. In 2018, I spent some time in Hawaii where my boyfriend was living and we were back and forth. This was just part of the reason for my sporadic posting. Like many of you, life has gotten busy!

I'm currently training for a pilgrimage walk in Italy, sometimes referred to as The Way of Saint Francis or the Via di Francesco. I will try to share a bit of Venice, Verona and the Biennale before moving on to this new adventure on my blog. Hopefully, I can share a bit of Hawaii too!

One more thing! 
I found so much Scottish music, 
as I was looking for songs for these posts, 
that I now have a huge fabulous list on my YouTube Account.
I might have saved the most fun song for last ...


Much gratitude to those that stuck with me
through all my big pauses and breaks!!
As always,
Blessing and light to you friends!


Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Walking Through Time and History - Culloden Moor and the Stand Stones at Clava Cairns


Forgive your enemy,
but remember the bastard's name.
~Scottish proverb


Culloden Battlefield



Twelve highlanders 
and a bagpipe make a rebellion ...
~Scottish Proverb


We arrived on a rainy mid morning to the famous battlefield not far from Inverness. The dramatic battle, in April of 1746, that lasted less than an hour, would be the end of the Jacobite Rebellions. 1,500 were slain. 1,000 of those fought on the side of the Jacobites who were fighting to return a Stuart King to the thrown.

Please press play of the music!
MacCrimmons Lament ...
"A Jacobite song lamenting the loss of a piper 
during the rebellion of 1745. 
This melody was written by the MacLeod’s piper, 
Donald Ban MacCrimmon, 
during the Jacobite rebellion of 1745." 



The visitors' center built in 2007




The new(ish) visitors center was fantastic because it told the story of the rebellion from both sides of the fight. There were interactive maps of the battlefield, a film reenactment, as well as weapons and other memorabilia from tiny painted portrait lockets of Bonnie Prince Charlie, to Jacobite crystal goblets and coins. There were even folks in costume explaining various objects to the visitors.

About the time we were going to head outside there was a downpour and we took cover in the gift shop to wait for my dad who ran to get the umbrellas out of the car. Nice to have a gentleman with you when you travel!

Leanach Cottage



It was raining as we walked out to the cottage which had likely been one of many buildings in 1746. During the battle, the cottage stood between the lines of the Government troops and it is thought to have been used as a field hospital for their soldiers.



At one time it was a visitors center for the battlefield.


Watching Outlander it seemed that the fight was simply the English (Hanoverarians) against the Scottish (Jacobites). It was a bit more complicated. For some it was about religion, restoring a Catholic 'rightful' monarch to the thrown, but for others it was about English oppression of the Highlanders. Beyond that there were those that were quite happy with status quo (Hanovarians) because of their pocketbooks and fought with them whatever your heritage.  

(I'm doing some major generalizing but if you are interested, check out "How the Scots Invented the Modern World." and other sources.)



Keep your fears to yourself, 
but share your courage with others. 


~Robert Louis Stevenson



The rain began to let up as we headed to the large cairn commemorating the highlanders who lost their lives fighting for Bonnie Prince Charlie. The smaller clan stones were quite moving to see with their floral offerings ...

Clan Stewart ...



... I feel a sort of reverence in going over these scenes 
in this most beautiful country,
which I am proud to call my own, 
where there was such devoted loyalty 
to the family of my ancestors 
~ for Stuart blood is in my veins ...


~Queen Victoria's journal entry in 1873



The light changed as we walked among the stones. Here is the silhouetted Clan Fraser stone.


I must admit to my mind wandering to characters from the Outlander TV show as I walked past the Stuart and Fraser stones. However, when I reached the stone of Clan Cameron, I almost burst into tears.


I felt a wave of sadness and the very real feeling of standing on the graves of my ancestors. The whole experience became something very different.







I watched a documentary that explained that they have done geophysical tests that confirm there are mass graves in this area.






THE BATTLE
OF CULLODEN
WAS FOUGHT ON THIS MOOR
16TH OF APRIL 1746
-
THE GRAVES OF THE 
GALLANT HIGHLANDERS
WHO FOUGHT FOR 
SCOTLAND & PRINCE CHARLIE,
ARE MARKED BY THE NAMES
OF THEIR CLANS



Heather on the field ...
















There were flags placed in different places on the field and you could listen to an audio commentary that explained what happened and where during the battle. 

For me, I took in the beauty of that sad field with its mossy, aged, clan stones and the beautiful wildflowers and lovely thick patches of heather. 



My travel Journal ...




Beautiful haunting Scottish Celtic and Pakistani music ...



From Culloden we drove the short distance (5 minutes?) to Clava Cairns.

Clava Cairns
Balnuaran of Clava
2,000 BC



We walked through an small, open, wooden gate to the past. No tickets, no guard, no shop selling miniature cairns ... just a light rain, rustling of leaves and a few hushed voices.






From Historic Environment Scotland-
The Clava Cairns comprise part of one, if not two, Bronze Age cemeteries. This landscape was an important place for ritual and burial activities in the Bronze Age. Later burials at the site suggest continued significance for over a millennia.
The three well-preserved cairns at Balnuaran each have a central chamber. But while the two outer cairns have entrance passages, the chamber of the central one is enclosed. Each cairn is surrounded by a ring of standing stones. Many of the stones used to construct the cairns have cup marks on them – these may have been reused from another place, perhaps an earlier sacred site.

For a moment the sun came through, just above us, lighting up the stones and wet green of the leaves and grass ... it felt a mystical gift!


And then it was gone. Although, the weather did keep changing because, you know, it's Scotland.






More from Historic Environment Scotland-
The cemetery at Clava suggests that midwinter was an important time of year for the society who built them.
The three prominent cairns form a line running north-east to south-west. The passages of the two cairns are also aligned towards the south-west, suggesting that the builders had their eyes on the midwinter sunset. The standing stones also suggest a focus on the midwinter sunset – they are graded in height with the tallest facing the setting sun in the south-west.
Considerable thought must have gone into the planning and construction of the graves. The midwinter solstice would have marked an important turning point in the year - many similar monuments across the British Isles have a similar alignment with movements of the midwinter sun. Such sites can tell us about beliefs of past societies and how they understood their world.


Standing inside ...




In the following photo, the largest standing stone I saw at Clava Cairns ...




I couldn't help myself. I had to have my silly Outlander moment.


Alas ... no Jamie and no portal to 18th century. Maybe next time.

Word is, that Diana Gabaldon took inspiration from Clava Cairns for her fictional "Craig na Dun" in Outlander.

The middle cairn that has no entrance.


The farthest ring from the gate ...








You can see the road and cows in the field across the way from this cairn.  It was so unlike the very famous Stone Henge where you can't really get that close to it. (At least when we went.) 


It might have been the weather and just the atmospheric scenery but this place seemed to have such a interesting energy to it that called for you to be quiet and reverent.



I found this wonderful short video on Youtube. It's drone footage from above and you get a sense of where it is and how close together the cairns are to each other.




These would definitely be on my "to do" list if you are in the Highlands near Inverness, Loch Ness and/or Speyside. More than just memorable, they are quite moving places to be, where you can literally walk among the ruins and touch history.

Links
Culloden 
Clava Cairns
National Trust Culloden Blog
(behind the scenes)

For those of you who want an overview of Jacobite Rebellion of '45 and Culloden, here's a BBC documentary.



After that we headed east, in the rain and some traffic, to the lovely ruins of Elgin Cathedral. I'll save that for another day!

blessing and light!