Edinburgh Day 1, Part 2 - The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo and The Bow Bar

Edinburgh

Day 1, part II

(Sorry for the slight pause, my computer indeed froze and I had to get more RAM!)

Anyway, my parents flew into Edinburgh the same day as I did, but a few hours later and by way of London. We met  in our little flat in Grassmarket rested for a bit and then tried to get a dinner reservation which proved impossible. During the Edinburgh Festival and Military Tattoo, it's good to plan ahead if you want something other than pub food. 

But you know, when in Scotland ...

The large draft beers and large orders of Fish n' Chips were indeed LARGE. Here, below, is my dad with one of our orders. You know it's big when you laugh as the food arrives. Fortunately we only ordered 2 for the 3 of us because we still had some left over. 

Oh, and it turns out I like Scottish Ale. Problem is that a big beer like that fills you up to where you  really aren't that hungry for food. I guess in some instances that could be a good thing?

We ate at Fiddler's Arms which was a very conveniently located old traditional pub which we could see across the street out our apartment window. Fortunately, we got in before a huge crowd of people, got a seat and were out in plenty of time to get up to the castle.

Back up Victoria Street ...

And up on the Royal Mile ...

We headed up with a huge crowd toward Edinburgh Castle, tickets in hand, for the Military Tattoo. My Aunt and Uncle used to take theater groups to Edinburgh for the festival and told us we absolutely couldn't miss the Tattoo! 

Lots of street performers everywhere, during the Edinburgh Festival, Fringe Festival and Film Festival. There was such energy and excitement in the air!

Almost at the castle, I looked back at the crowd. I loved these two guys' faces!

The Tattoo is up on the Castle Hill just out front of the entrance and Castle walls. They build big bleachers for the run of the show. Before heading into the bleachers I snapped this next shot. You can see a glimpse of the castle on the right.

The 2017 Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

"Splash of the Tartan"

I couldn't believe how many performers there were! And so many pipers! Apparently, more than 250 of them! Pipers have always made my mom cry and I admit to getting weepy myself through much of the show! For some reason the whole experience was very emotional! Maybe it's in my Scottish blood.

I'm so glad we had gotten tickets (pretty far in advance, online) for our very first night in Scotland! (Fortunately, no flight delays!)

It was so beautiful how they projected various visual themes, that went with the narrative, onto Edinburgh Castle and its walls! And the designs were moving and morphing into different images!

From the official website:

"2017 saw the Tattoo celebrate the theme ‘Splash of Tartan’ 

promoting the year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, 

with each performance seeing at least two of the nation’s 

ancient Clans take to the esplanade.

‘Splash of Tartan’ welcomed a cast of more than 1,200 performers from all points of the compass, including over 250 pipers and drummers, five United Kingdom military bands drawn from across the three Services, a first-time performance from Japan and plenty of other surprises along the way. The programme also paid rich tribute to the UK’s maritime heritage and the Royal Navy in this special year, with HMS Queen Elizabeth now on sea trials and HMS Prince of Wales in build. 

This year’s performance reflected on Scotland’s links across the globe and showcased some of its finest musical traditions. As ever, the headline act - the Massed Pipes and Drums - created an unmatched atmosphere and sound, with more than 250 pipers and drummers playing in perfect pitch: the most iconic sight and sound of the Tattoo."

 I think this next shot was about the Vikings coming to Scotland.

The shot below is of a reenactment of the rebellion of the '45 when the Jacobites rose up against the Hanoverian British monarchy, on the side of the House of Stewart in the 1700s. People in the crowd were generally cheering the ragtag Jacobites, not the British army. 

Loved the plaid on the castle!

At one point they were telling of Bonnie Prince Charlie, escaping from Scotland after the uprising via the Isle of Skye with the help of Flora MacDonald. They Played the Skye Boat Song (now people know it as the theme song to Outlander, but with the words changed) and how that was the end of the Jacobites. My mom and I were both sitting there, tissues in hand and trying to hold it together.

I took some quick little videos with my iPhone that I spliced together ...

At the end of the last clip, it abruptly ends because everyone crossed their arms and grabbed the hands next to them and sang out LOUD Auld Lang Syne! Funny, I'd never heard it fast like that! Always slow and melancholy on New Years Eve, but this was almost a cheer! Somehow, it still made me cry though, hearing it for the first time in Scotland!! Good ol' "Rabbie" Burns!

After the show, in front of the castle. After all the planning it felt like I'd somehow won a reward for my efforts! Oh, and by my clothes you can tell how warm it is in the second half of August! Fortunately, I'd gone online and found out that fall starts mid August so we were prepared for cooler nights!

For those that may remember my Rome trip, I was wearing the same hat I lost in Rome and backtracked to find with the caretaker at the Church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Also, the same hat that I "lost" in New York at a Broadway show and had to retrieve later from the Stage Manager at Mary Poppins. I managed to hold on to it this trip ... but lost another hat! Oy vey! 

To finish off our first night with a toast ... we went to the well known Bow Bar on Victoria Street on our way back to Grass Market.

The Bow Bar

80 West Bow, Victoria Street

This charming pub has won all sorts of awards for their wee, one room, Whisky and beer bar with hundreds of Single Malts from all over Scotland to choose from!

But what to choose? I wanted to try something new on my first night. I told the bartender that I usually drink Laphroaig 10 year at home so I definitely like a peated Scotch.

He recommended another Isla Scotch, called Kilchoman ... They are in the middle of the photo to the left of the Laphroaig.

There it is! First Scotch of the trip in a cute little Glencairn glass!

It was DELICIOUS! It's always worth asking a good bar tender! Alas, back in the states, that Scotch is a bit north of my price point but you know, it's fun to try knew things and I made it a bit of my mission!

I might have to do a post just on "The Water of Life." ;)

Anyway, that was it for our first day of arrival and it took 2 posts! I might be blogging Scotland until Christmas!

LINKS

The Bow Bar

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

Fiddlers Arms

Sláinte Mhath!

(pronounced SLANtchih va)

A toast to Good Health!

Finally!!! Edinburgh and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery!

But to see her was to love her,

Love but her, and love forever.

~Robert Burns

SCOTLAND

AUGUST 2017

YES! FINALLY!

For many many reasons I've been away from Cobalt Violet for over 6 months! In part, it was getting ready for my adventure and then I was away. Then I was away AGAIN, after which I had a houseguest (you'll have to wait on that one) and then I was away AGAIN! 

On top of that, apparently my 10 year old Mac desktop doesn't want to load 10,000 photos from my iPhone! I haven't even tried my to load the huge files from my big canon digital camera. I'm afraid my computer will crash and I'll loose everything. Time for a new(ish?) computer I'm afraid.

Anyway, enough first world problem complaints and on to more fun things. My big wonderful adventure! And yes, it was everything I hoped for. Scotland was magical and it was as beautiful as I'd hoped with the added bonus that the people were unbelievably kind, funny and just flat out wonderful!

First stop ... Edinburgh. I'd been there very briefly back when I was about 21 and remembered thinking that it was a beautiful city. This time I would be meeting my parents there and I was excited to spend four whole nights! Actually, it turns out that there is so much to do that our schedule was a little over booked! 

Above, my little airplane sketch. OH! And I did the little watercolor map up on top of this post on my way "across the pond." The little "route" I drew on map, I did along the way as we continued on our journey. Good thing because there were some adjustments and changes in our itinerary.

When I arrived, I was looking for a tram but found a bus so I hopped on board. Then I became completely disoriented and quickly made friends with a Polish lady (a resident) and several Scots who were kindly explaining how I needed to get to my AirBnb in the Grassmarket area. By the time I arrived at my stop, I had a young woman and older Scotsman getting off at the same stop. The latter was going a few blocks out of his way (now in the rain) to point me in the right direction.

I dragged my rather large, bright red hard shell suitcase, in the drizzle, down a street, under a bridge, (covering myself with my shawl) to a street that ran right under Edinburgh Castle.

Below, my first glimpse of the Edinburgh Castle! I was so excited I didn't care about the drizzle, or that I was quickly beginning to resemble a drown rat! Here I was! I made it!

And suddenly, there I was in the little Grassmarket Neighborhood ... spectacular view of the castle and all! Where you see the van on the left (below) was the shop where I immediately bought myself an umbrella. Plaid, of course! 

I soon realized that the drizzle and wet climate would give me a whole new hairdo, with the volume and waves I'd always wanted. Who knew?

My travel journal ... sketching the castle with a ball point pen.

I arrived about an hour before I was supposed to meet with lady from our AirBnb, but when I finally got in I was tired but thrilled.

 

The view out our window looked up at the castle! I knew this from the online photos but now I was there and it was beautiful! To be able to sit on the little fold out sofa and see it! Right there! 

It felt like this old castle was somehow watching over me while holding its endless stories, secrets and tales ...

I rested for about an hour, under the ever watchful castle. Knowing that my parents wouldn't be there for a few hours ... I headed up to Victoria Street and toward the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.

It doesn't get much more charming than Victoria Street. It's said that Daigon Alley, in Harry Potter, was inspired by this street!

I wanted to go in the shops but I was laser focused. Well, sort of. I had to stop to take photos. 

Below, looking down on Victoria Street, where later that night I'd have my first Scotch of the trip!

I headed up and over the hill. I wanted to stop on the Royal Mile but I kept going ...

Below, I'm looking North from the hill just below the Castle. In the center you can see the monument to Sir Walter Scott. Good thing I'd been hiking a lot to get ready for my little excursion on the Isle of Skye. LOTS of hills and stairs in Edinburgh! On my way back up I lost count on one set of stairs at 200.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery

As you can see, the Great Hall of the Portrait Gallery is spectacularly beautiful! I was so bummed my parents were not there with me! I had no idea how stunning it was.

Below, a statue of Robert Burns.

The mural below is of the marriage procession of James IV and Margaret Tudor in 1503 in Edinburgh, by nineteenth century artist William Hole.

Below a mural of Saint Margaret landing at Queen's Ferry in 1068 also by William Hole.

After more than a year of researching Scotland, watching documentaries, listening to books on tape, watching somewhat inaccurate biopics and drinking Scotch, my heart raced as I began to walk among these people. It's as if there spirits were alive in this place, in their portraits, telling their story and the story of Scotland. It was intense and I could feel my heart beat a bit faster with the excitement of finally being there ...

HOUSE OF STEWART 

and 

Jacobite Portraits

Mary, Queen of Scots

artist unknown

oil on canvas, about 1610-1615

"This image of Mary Queen of Scots dates from more than twenty years after her execution in 1587. The artist has based Mary's features on a miniature painted during her imprisonment in England."

Mary Queen of Scots

(1542-1587)

Artist Unknown, after 

François Clouet

oil on panel, probably 19th century

The original of the above portrait was just before leaving France and heading back to Scotland to take her place as Mary I of Scotland. Her mom had been the regent while Mary was away in France.

James V (1512-1542)

Father of Mary Queen of Scots, Reigned 1513-1542

Artist Unknown

oil on panel, about 1579

Mary of Guise 

(1515-1560 Mother of Mary, Queeen of Scots)

by Corneille de Lyon

oil on panel, painted about 1537

I'd seen the above portraits in books and in documentaries, but I had no idea that the last two were so small! The one of Mary of Guise was maybe a 5 x 7.  Loved the frame with velvet. Anyway, such an interesting history with these ladies. 

Queen Anne, when Princess of Denmark

(1665-1714)

Willem Wissing and Jan van der Vaart

oil on canvas, about 1685

Poor Anne had 18 children and non survived into adulthood, thus she was the last member of House of Stewart to reign. Her cousin George I, a protestant, became the first Hanoverian monarch of Britain.

Prince James Francis Edward Stewart, 1688-1766

Son of James VII and II

by Francois de Troy

Oil on canvas, 1701

In 1701, James VII and II died and Prince James was recognised as King of England, Scotland and Ireland by Louis XIV, the pope and several other Catholic rulers. But, of course, as a Catholic, he would never rule. This was thought to have been painted to commemorate is 13th birthday and his adorable looks were apparently a "boon to the Jacobite cause."

 Prince Charles Edward Stewart, 1720-1788

"Bonnie Prince Charlie" 

Eldest son of Prince James Frances Edward Stewart

artist unknown, after Jean-Etienne Liotard (1702-1789)

Oil on canvas, 1737

"Prince Charles Edward Stuart was the son of the 'Old Pretender', Prince James Francis Edward, and the grandson of King James VII and II, who was overthrown in 1688. Popularly known as 'Bonnie Prince Charlie', he embodied the hopes of the exiled Jacobite dynasty. After the defeat of his army by government forces at Culloden in 1746, he escaped to France and remained in exile for the remainder of his life. In this portrait the young prince is wearing the order of the Garter and the Jacobite blue bonnet with a white cockade. The latter represents the white rose, a symbol for Jacobite sympathies, and was worn by the prince’s troops in the absence of a formal uniform."

Flora Macdonald (1722-1790)

 [Fionnghal nighean Raghnaill ’ic Aonghais Òig]

 Jacobite heroine

by Richard Wilson (1713/14-1782)

Oil on canvas, 1747

 

I love her story! (More on Flora when we get to the post about the Isle of Skye!)

"The famous Jacobite heroine Flora Macdonald lived on South Uist, in the Outer Hebrides. In 1746, on the neighbouring island of Benbecula she met Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the Young Pretender, in flight after the disastrous defeat at Culloden. She helped the Prince escape by boat to Skye, disguising him as her maidservant. She was arrested for her part in assisting him and taken prisoner to London. After her release in 1747 she commissioned this portrait which she gave to the captain of the ship which had brought her south, in thanks for the kindness he had shown her."

Patrick Grant (1713 / 1714 - 1824)

[Pàdraig Grannd an Dubh-bhruaich]

by Colvin Smith (Scottish, 1795-1875)

Oil on canvas, 1822

I knew this painting of Patrick Grant was in the Portrait Gallery and I was looking around in the galleries for it. You see, there are a LOT of Grants back in my family tree. Many Grants fought on the side of the Crown (the Hanoverians) but this Grant was on the side of the Jacobites. (Those that wanted a Stewart king back on the thrown.)

Found it! (I also took my picture with Flora!)

"As a young man, Patrick Grant had fought on the Jacobite side against the Hanoverian army during the 1745 Rising. When, nearly eighty years later, George IV visited Edinburgh in 1822, Grant was introduced to the King as 'His Majesty's oldest enemy'. The King offered Grant and his daughter a state pension, one of his many acts aimed at reconciling England and Scotland and strengthening the new nation of Great Britain. In this sympathetic portrait the sitter, swathed in tartan and wearing a large crucifix, looks considerably younger than his 109 years."

In a stairway ... 

More portraits ... Royal and otherwise,

Princess Elizabeth (1635-1650) and Princess Anne (1637-1640)

Daughters of Charles I

Sir Anthony van Dyck (Flemish 1599-1641)

Oil on canvas, 1637

This was a study for a larger painting. You have to really check the dates on these paintings, because the royalty had (and has!) a tenancy to use the same names over and over! It can get crazy confusing! 

detail of painting below

Elizabeth Gunning, Duchess of Hamilton

1733-1790

by Gavin Hamilton (Scottish)

oil on canvas, 1752/53

Queen Victoria, (1819-1901)

by Franz Xaver Winterhalter

oil on canvas, 1840

(Anyone watching Victoria on PBS?? I LOVE it! I know, shocking.)

This next one is so sweet! The glare was a nightmare so I didn't get the best shot but here it is ...

The Lullaby

depicted: Margaret Ferrier, the artist's wife and son

by Sir Joseph Noel Paton (Scottish 1821-1901)

oil on panel, 1861

The couple had 11 children. "The little boy depicted here, Diarmid Noël Paton, grew up to become Professor of Physiology at Glasgow University and a pioneer in the study of nutrition and metabolism."

Eric Robertson with Mary Newbery

by Cecile Walton (Scottish 1891-1956)

oil on canvas, 1912

"Mary Newbery was the daughter of Francis and Jessie Newbery, who both attended Glasgow School of Art. She studied painting and design in Glasgow and Paris and, like her mother, specialised in embroidery and paintings of flowers in watercolour. Newbery was a close friend of Cecile Walton – meeting her husband, the painter Alick Riddell Sturrock, through Walton’s own husband, Eric Robertson. Posing as Newbery's ‘companion’, Robertson is depicted here in a manner which emphasises his androgynous beauty."

I just loved that painting! Both the technique and style, as well as the strangeness of its subject and narrative. What is going on!?

Another portrait I HAD to see before leaving the gallery ...

Robert Burns, (1759-1796)

Poet

Alexander Nasmyth (Scottish 1758-1840)

Oil on canvas, 1787

"This half-length portrait of Burns, framed within an oval, has become the most well-known and widely reproduced image of the famous Scottish poet. Nasmyth's painting, commissioned by the publisher William Creech, was to be engraved for a new edition of Burns' poems. He is shown fashionably dressed against a landscape, evoking his rural background in Alloway, Ayrshire. Burns and Nasmyth had become good friends, having been introduced to one another in Edinburgh by a mutual patron, Patrick Miller of Dalswinton. Nasmyth, pleased to have recorded Burns' likeness convincingly, decided to leave the painting in a slightly unfinished state."

As you might have guessed, I LOVED the portrait gallery and if you are heading to Edinburgh I'd highly recumbent it! Apparently, there was a major overhaul of the museum and it reopened in 2011.

This video on youtube gives you an idea of the extent of the renovation but also another good view of the museum. 

All that and the day wasn't over! I walked all the way back to Grassmarket to meet up with my parents. I had the key! After that, we still had fish n' chips to eat, tickets to the "Tattoo" and my first Scotch of the trip! That will have to wait until my next post which, I promise, will not be another 6 months!

Here I am in front of a lovely shop on Victoria Street. It was there that I ended up buying a beautiful red Stewart tartan shawl. I might be a reincarnated Jacobite. Or I just love red. 

Website for Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Blessings and light!