Sunday, July 21, 2019

Verona ~ Loveliness in Romeo and Juliet's Hood

There is no world beyond Verona's walls.
~Romeo, William Shakespeare 

Sunset in Verona, 2018
9 x 12"
Pastel on sanded paper

Bella Verona

After Venice, we headed to the charming town of Verona. My mom and dad had been there before and had loved it. It also happened that was where my aunt and uncle were renting an apartment and after years of all of us discussing our love of Italy we were finally all going to be there together!

After so much rain on our trip, I finally got to wear my little black silk dress! 

Ready for our dinner on the hill! 

My aunt and uncle found this wonderful restaurant with a beautiful view called Re Teodorico. It's just above where the tram takes you up ton he hill above the Adige river. 

We stayed at the family run Hotel Torcolo. They were incredibly kind, welcoming, and not even a block off the main piazza with its old roman amphitheater. 

Just off the main square, to the North of the Amphitheater, is the shopping street of Via Giuseppe Mazzini. 

Museo di Castelvecchio
Built 1354-1356

    This museum was definitely worth a visit. The Castelvecchio Museum exhibits collections of Medieval, Renaissance and art works up to the 18th century. It has 29 exhibition halls. However, the way the exhibitions are presented it does not feel overwhelming.

    My favorite thing about the museum was how the individual works were mounted and displayed. I don't know if you can really see it in the photographs but it was beautifully done. 

    Below is a detail from a larger painting.

    Claudio Ridolfi (1570-1644)

    Santa Maria of Egypt 
    XV Century
    Angelo del Maccagnino?

    Polittico della Passione
    Paolo Morando called il Cavazzola
    1485c. - 1522

    Below is another detail from the massive altarpiece above.

    The museum also has some fabulous views!

    What made Verona extra special was the addition of my niece!! Elizabeth lives in Berlin and was able to join us for the weekend. And, of course, an afternoon spritz!

    And gelato!

    Casa di Giulietta

    Though the whole Romeo and Juliet balcony is a tourist trap, we had to go! There were throngs of people and crowds below taking pictures of their friends and lovers as they emerged out onto the balcony.

    There's a hall/archway when you enter the courtyard with these "love bandaids" on the walls. Apparently, people feel the need for a little love healing or maybe Bandaids are the only sticky things they have in their bags and backpacks to write on?

    The old Gothic style building from the 1300s is lovely but the hundreds (?) of tourists make it less romantic and more hilarious. The crowd was pretty jovial, and very loud as they shouted up to the various stream of Juliets who waited for their photo ops.

    We decided we'd pay only one crazy ticket price and have my niece go up to stand on the little "balconette."

    What was even more funny than the general scene was that when Elizabeth appeared she was so lovely that the crowd actually stopped, quieted, and there was an audible "Ahhh ..."  from the throng below.

    She really did look like the perfect Giulietta. 

    We took lots of photos for her now finance! 

    Hosteria il Punto Rosa

    By far our best meal out in Italy was found by my niece on her iPhone. It was just up the street from our hotel and we managed to get a reservation because of a downpour of rain. The photo below was in the little upstairs area where we had  our scrumptious dinner.

    We had the most incredible melon and prociutto that was beautifully presented spilling out of a glass container onto a large platter. The melon was mouthwatering and I'm not sure why the meat was so delicious but it was amazing. A couple of us ordered an incredible handmade pasta dish with shaved truffles. It was out of this world! I can't remember what everyone else ordered but we were all thrilled with our choices. 

    On top of that the staff was friendly, funny and fabulous. I highly recommend this place.

    The cloudy skies from the night before stuck around the next day but my niece and I managed to tour the old Roman Amphitheater, do some window shopping, dine with my parents and walk around town a bit. 

    Homemade pasta in a shop window ...

    As with many towns in Italy, some of the most beautiful artistic treasures are the churches themselves!  
    Basilica of Saint Anastasia 
    Italian Gothic 

    There were other churches and basilica's we popped into but when Elizabeth and I walked in we were struck by its incredible beauty. It is also the largest church in Verona. 

    The delicate detail of the ceiling was magnificent. It reminds me of beautiful Florentine stationery and paper that you find. It was exquisite.

    The church is "co-entitled" with St. Peter of Verona, who was martyr and co-patron of the city, but it's generally known as Sant'Anastasia.  I'm not sure which one because there are several saints with the name and at least three matyrs named Anastasia. It doesn't mention her on the official website or even clear it up on Wikipedia. Hmm. Still on a hunt for that information so I can give her props. 

    Yet another Anastasia mystery?

    We headed over the bridge and to dinner at my aunt and uncle's wonderful place they rented. We shared a delightful meal, belatedly celebrated my niece's birthday, and I prepared myself to say goodbye to Italy. (Until a couple of months ago, but that's another story!)

    You may have the universe
    if I may have Italy.
    ~Giuseppe Verdi


    Ci Vediamo ... a presto!

    Blessings and light!

    Next up ... Beautiful Hawaii!


    donna baker said...

    Oh Lucinda, what a charmed life you lead. So nice to hear about your adventures. I wrote a novel this year set in Portugal and Argentina and long to go to those places, alas, my little old weenie girls keep me home to care for them. I'm in the query stage and it is all consuming. I hope I can travel one day soon.

    Loree said...

    I've visited Verona twice but they were both short day trips. I enjoyed the vibe of the city though. It's an pretty place.

    Cobalt Violet said...

    Hi Donna! Nice to hear from you! I can't wait to hear more about your book! I've never been to Portugal and Argentina! Might be a good primer! ;)

    Yes Loree, I agree ... good vibe and quite pretty.