Showing posts with label Historic Scotland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Historic Scotland. Show all posts

Sunday, April 7, 2019

Castles and Coos ~ Castle Stalker, Dunstaffnage, Inveraray, Highland Cows and Loch Lommand


By yon bonnie banks and by yon bonnie braes
Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond
Where me and my true love were ever won't to gae
On the bonnie, bonnie bank o' Loch Lomand.

Castle Stalker
the Falconer, 1320

We are winding down on the Scotland posts! This is the second to last! My parents and I left the Highlands and headed south to Glasgow but there was still much to see along the way. Having said that, we did a few "drive-byes" because you just can't do it all.



If you have the time, and are there on the right day, you can reserve a spot on a small boat to take you over the Loch to the castle. If you are a Monte Python fan you might recognize it as "Castle Aaaahhh" from Monte Python and the Holy Grail.

Since we were headed in that direction ... please press play!




There is a little cafe above Castle Stalker that looks out from these views and a gift shop where we did some damage. Haha! My mom bought the most beautiful woolen shawl and I got a few items including a couple of charming little children's books.


There is a whole lot of history with MacDoughalls and Stewarts and I will go ahead and link that below!

A different vantage point of the castle beyond the Scottish thistles.


Dunstaffnage Castle
Argyll and Bute, Western Scotland


"... Stronghold of the MacDougalls, built before 1240 on a huge rock above the Firth of Lorn. Captured by Robert the Bruce in 1308, the castle remained in royal hands until 1469." - Historic Environment Scotland



This is one of the oldest castle ruins in Scotland and was yet another location that was on our Explorer Pass. I highly recommend the pass if you are going to spend some time in Scotland. It was  well worth the money. There was no line to get in at Dunstaffnage but being able to bypass lines at Edinburgh and Sterling Castles were a bonus!



My favorite history of this castle was that Flora MacDonald stayed here. Flora is the heroic woman who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape! Here's some more info on that.

"Late in 1746, Dunstaffnage welcomed one of its more famous guests, Flora MacDonald.
This gentle-mannered woman was visiting her brother in South Uist when she met Bonnie Prince Charlie, then fleeing from the Redcoats following his April defeat at Culloden. Flora agreed to help him get away, and dressed him up as her serving girl, ‘Betty Burke’.
The pair crossed to Skye, from where the prince made his escape. But Flora was arrested and brought to Dunstaffnage. She remained there just a few days, before being moved to the Tower of London. She was released the following year."

About 50 meters along a path is the family chapel ruins of Dunstaffnage.


And then we headed off to ...


Inveraray Castle
1746
 Ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll 
Chief of the Clan Campbell

 Across from the parking lot ... Highland Cows! Or rather, Hielan' Coos. Finally!


We'd driven by some "coos" on the Isle of Skye where we couldn't pull over. Before we caught a glimpse in the Borders area but they were quite far away and not so easily photographed. Our time in the countryside was ending and I had almost lost hope in getting a good "paintable" photo.

And here we were outside Inveraray Castle ... and there they were! 

I love this guy.




"An Inveraray Castle has been standing on the shores of Loch Fyne since the 1400s, although the impressive castle we know today was inspired by a sketch by Vanbrugh, the architect of Blenheim Palace and Castle Howard in the 1700s."

I must say, it does evoke a romantic, fairy tale image of Cinderella's castle! 


I loved the enclosed garden entry and the beautiful drawing room, below. I could totally hang out in there and play one of the two songs I remember on the harp! Ha!




As feminine and lovely as the previous room was, the next room was by contrast, a testosterone filled fantasy! 
 

The Armory Hall





The Saloon 

"A remarkably modern living room for its time, the Saloon was chosen by the 5th Duke to be a relaxing area, where guests could have breakfast, play billiards or make music.In the corner is a grand piano where the songwriters Lerner and Loewe composed some of the songs for their musical My Fair Lady, while staying at the Castle."

Robes worn by Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll
4th Daughter of Queen Victoria
At the Coronation of King Edward VII in 1902.


Robes of the Order of the Thistle
Worn by the husband of Princess Louise, The Marquess of Lorne
Later 9the Duke of Argyll


I'm not sure how I feel about the Badgerhead Sporran, below, but it might discourage pickpockets? For those of you unfamiliar with Sporrans they are a small "man bag" that one wears at the waist of a kilt.



Like a ghost story? This next room is the one for you. Although, I'm not sure how I feel about the harp reference! (I started playing in Junior High and one still sits in my living room.)

MacArthur Room 

"The ghostly bed in this room is elaborately carved and belonged to the MacArthurs of Loch Awe. Legend has it that a young Irish harpist was murdered by the Duke of Montrose's men in 1644. The bed was moved to the present castle from the old Inveraray Castle and the boy's ghost was so attached to the bed it travelled with it. When a member of the family is about to die, it is said that harp music is heard coming from the room."


The castle has a number of ghosts including the 'Grey Lady', only seen by daughters of a Duke of Argyll, a floating ship or ‘Galley of Lorne' which moves away on the horizon on the death of the Duke and a raucous kitchen maid."

My favorite part of the castle was this next room which is called the "Victorian Room" which was a lovely eclectic living space. Love that carved chair!


"The Victorian Room is a tribute to the marriage between HRH Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria and the Marquess of Lorne, who subsequently became the 9th Duke ... items on display include a porcelain figure of Queen Victoria at her spinning wheel, sculpted by Princess Louise, a talented artist and sculptor. There are also two intriguing pieces of furniture converted from an old coach presented by the Duke of Sutherland to the 8th Duke of Argyll."


"The marriage was considered controversial at the time, as it was the first time a member of the Royal Family had married outside royalty but Queen Victoria wanted new blood in the family and suggested a member of the aristocracy. Princess Louise fell in love with John, Marquess of Lorne and the Queen consented to the marriage, which took place on 21st of March 1871."



O you'll tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road
And I'll be in Scotland afore ye,
For me and my true love will ne-r meet again On the bonnie, bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond.


Loch Lomond 
Loch Loamainn ~ Lake of the Elms


After spending two weeks humming, singing and whistling On the Bonnie Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond, with my parents, driving around Scotland ... we finally made it. 

'Twas there that we parted in yon shady glen
On the steep, steep sides o' Ben Lomond
Where deep in purple hue, the hieland hills we view
And the moon comin' out in the gloaming'.

Arriving at Loch Lomond meant we were almost at the end of our journey and only 14 miles outside of Glasgow. Also, of possible interest, it's a fresh water loch and has the largest surface area of any lake in Great Britain. Just in case you were about to ask.


In honor of my folks and all the driving we did around Scotland, here is Deanna Durban (at 18!) singing the old Scottish song. It was in 1940.



Links

The wee birdies sing and the wildflowers spring,
And in sunshine the waters are sleeping.
But the broken heart it kens nae second spring again,
Though the waeful may cease frae their grieving.

O ye'll tak' the high road, and I'll tak' the low road,
And I'll be in Scotland a'fore ye,
But me and my true love will never meet again,
On the bonnie, bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond.

~ first published in 1841

Next up Glasgow!
Blessings and light!


Thursday, February 28, 2019

Back to the Highlands~ Glenfinnan, Clan Cameron and off to Onich!


"I shall share the fate of my Prince,
 and so shall every man 
over whom nature or fortune 
has given me any power." 

~Cameron of Lochiel to Prince Charles
July 1745

Glenfinnan Monument
and 
The Glenfinnan Viaduct


I can't believe it's been nearly a year and a half since we were there and so much has happened! The thing is, I loved Scotland so much that I'm bound and determined to finish posting about it! 

My travel Journal


This monument was  built where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his father's Standard and waited for the Highland clans. At Glenfinnan he would rally the Highlanders to the Jacobite cause with the mission of putting a Stewart King back on the Scottish thrown!  The monument is a tribute to those who died fighting for what would turn out to be a lost cause. 


Across the road is a trail that leads you to a famous bridge that will take you to Hogwarts! You can actually take a ride on the Jacobite Steam Train over the viaduct from Fort William to Mallaig. Would have loved to have taken my nephew, Benjamin, on that adventure!

It was gorgeous when we arrived! Alas, though not surprisingly, enormous clouds rolled in and within a few minutes it was raining buckets. (It was Scotland after all!) Unfortunately, that meant that we never got to see the quintessential view of the Harry Potter bridge! I was very happy though to have caught a glimpse of the lone kilted highlander on the top of the monument.


We decided not to hang around waiting for the sun and instead moved on to Cameron country. 

The farthest back we've been able to trace our matrilineal ancestry is to my 4th great grandmother Catherine Cameron. Catherine was born in Scotland in 1798 and at some point immigrated to Canada. 

Catherine's daughter Nancy Ann Grant was born in Glengarry, Canada but would give birth her daughter Anna in the United States, in Faribault, Minnesota. 


We have not found Catherine Cameron's specific birthplace but I felt going to Cameron lands and the Clan Cameron museum would be the closest I would get to hopefully having a sense of her birthplace. At least, for now! 


The "Heartland of Clan Cameron" is South of Loch Ness and Northwest of Glencoe. 

And it's beautiful country!



The Gate of Clan Cameron leading to the museum and Castle


Clan Cameron Museum
Achnacarry, Spean Bridge, Scotland

 

John Cameron of Lochiel XVIII Chief lived in exile in France after the 1715 rising. Of his four sons, Donald, John, Alexander and Archibald, only John did not an active part in the '45 Jacobite Rising.

The Camerons are proud of their history as Jacobites and their support for Bonnie Prince Charlie.


Waistcoat belonging to Prince Charles

It was left at Fassifern the house of John Cameron, Lochiel's brother where the Prince spent the night of the 23rd August, 1745, a little over a year before the battle of Culloden. Fabulous, right? I would totally wear it.


Donald Cameron of Lochiel
XIX Chief- "The Gentle Lochiel" took over responsibility for the clan in 1716 ...

"As soon as the Prince [Charles] landed [in 1745] he summoned Lochiel to him, knowing that if he could win his support then the other clans would follow. Lochiel was determined that the Prince should return to fence but instead, on meeting him, he was persuaded by the Prince to commit itself and his people - thereby securing the wavering support of most of the other chiefs."


Jacobite Ring (above) with a secret spring which, when opened, reveals a portrait of Prince Charles Edward Stewart.

"Lochiel fought at the head of his Clan throughout the '45 and was wounded in both ankles at Culloden. He was carried from the battlefield and made his way back to Lochaber." 

"There he saw all the Cameron lands laid waste and his house of Anchnacarry burned to the ground. He escaped to France with Prince Charles and died there in 1748."




I love the Cameron tartans, especially the Cameron of Erracht pattern which has more navy blue and green than the others, with red and very fine yellow stripes. I think it's on the old WWI bagpipes above. I bought a couple of yards of the tartan ribbon which I'd love to put on a hat and a beautiful long wool tartan sash for my mother. 

For two nights we'd be staying in Onich on Loch Linnhe, near beautiful Glencoe. On our way we saw this monument to the officers and commandos who died in WWII.


"In memory of the officers and men of the commandos 
who died in the second word war 
1939-1945
This country was their training ground"


In the early evening we made it our little AirBnb at the "Little Schoolhouse" in Onich, right across the road from Loch Linnhe. It was breathtaking!


It was a cute and clean little one bedroom with a spectacular view! They set up a little bed for me in the living room. I would love to be able to go back for a week just to hike around and to do some plein air painting! It would be heavenly.

 


After meeting the lovely couple who live in the adjacent house and run the little AirBnb, we got settled and drove a couple of little towns over, to Ballachulish, for some dinner.


This pub is also where I left my new red hat from the millinery shop in Edinburgh! Unfortunately, I didn't figure that out until we got to Glasgow. As I mentioned in a previous post, I called the pub and a sweet lady who works there said "The wooly red cap? Where are you staying?" I explained that I'd stayed at the little school house and she offered to drop it off with our BnB hosts who she seemed to know. They sent the hat to my parents' address in Ojai! In fact, I wore it yesterday! 

I love Scotland.


LINKS
Commando Monument

Blessings and light!