Castles and Coos ~ Castle Stalker, Dunstaffnage, Inveraray, Highland Cows and Loch Lommand

By yon bonnie banks and by yon bonnie braes

Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond

Where me and my true love were ever won't to gae

On the bonnie, bonnie bank o' Loch Lomand.

Castle Stalker

the Falconer, 1320

We are winding down on the Scotland posts! This is the second to last! My parents and I left the Highlands and headed south to Glasgow but there was still much to see along the way. Having said that, we did a few "drive-byes" because you just can't do it all.

If you have the time, and are there on the right day, you can reserve a spot on a small boat to take you over the Loch to the castle. If you are a Monte Python fan you might recognize it as "Castle Aaaahhh" from Monte Python and the Holy Grail.

Since we were headed in that direction ... please press play!

There is a little cafe above Castle Stalker that looks out from these views and a gift shop where we did some damage. Haha! My mom bought the most beautiful woolen shawl and I got a few items including a couple of charming little children's books.

There is a whole lot of history with MacDoughalls and Stewarts and I will go ahead and link that below!

A different vantage point of the castle beyond the Scottish thistles.

Dunstaffnage Castle
Argyll and Bute, Western Scotland

"... Stronghold of the MacDougalls, built before 1240 on a huge rock above the Firth of Lorn. Captured by Robert the Bruce in 1308, the castle remained in royal hands until 1469." - Historic Environment Scotland

This is one of the oldest castle ruins in Scotland and was yet another location that was on our Explorer Pass. I highly recommend the pass if you are going to spend some time in Scotland. It was  well worth the money. There was no line to get in at Dunstaffnage but being able to bypass lines at Edinburgh and Sterling Castles were a bonus!

My favorite history of this castle was that Flora MacDonald stayed here. Flora is the heroic woman who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape! Here's some more info on that.

"Late in 1746, Dunstaffnage welcomed one of its more famous guests, Flora MacDonald.

This gentle-mannered woman was visiting her brother in South Uist when she met Bonnie Prince Charlie, then fleeing from the Redcoats following his April defeat at Culloden. Flora agreed to help him get away, and dressed him up as her serving girl, ‘Betty Burke’.

The pair crossed to Skye, from where the prince made his escape. But Flora was arrested and brought to Dunstaffnage. She remained there just a few days, before being moved to the Tower of London. She was released the following year."

About 50 meters along a path is the family chapel ruins of Dunstaffnage.

And then we headed off to ...

Inveraray Castle

1746

 Ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll 

Chief of the Clan Campbell

 Across from the parking lot ... Highland Cows! Or rather, Hielan' Coos. Finally!

We'd driven by some "coos" on the Isle of Skye where we couldn't pull over. Before we caught a glimpse in the Borders area but they were quite far away and not so easily photographed. Our time in the countryside was ending and I had almost lost hope in getting a good "paintable" photo.

And here we were outside Inveraray Castle ... and there they were! 

I love this guy.

"An Inveraray Castle has been standing on the shores of Loch Fyne since the 1400s, although the impressive castle we know today was inspired by a sketch by Vanbrugh, the architect of Blenheim Palace and Castle Howard in the 1700s."

I must say, it does evoke a romantic, fairy tale image of Cinderella's castle! 

I loved the enclosed garden entry and the beautiful drawing room, below. I could totally hang out in there and play one of the two songs I remember on the harp! Ha!

As feminine and lovely as the previous room was, the next room was by contrast, a testosterone filled fantasy! 

 

The Armory Hall

The Saloon 

"A remarkably modern living room for its time, the Saloon was chosen by the 5th Duke to be a relaxing area, where guests could have breakfast, play billiards or make music.In the corner is a grand piano where the songwriters Lerner and Loewe composed some of the songs for their musical My Fair Lady, while staying at the Castle."

Robes worn by Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll

4th Daughter of Queen Victoria

At the Coronation of King Edward VII in 1902.

Robes of the Order of the Thistle

Worn by the husband of Princess Louise, The Marquess of Lorne

Later 9the Duke of Argyll

I'm not sure how I feel about the Badgerhead Sporran, below, but it might discourage pickpockets? For those of you unfamiliar with Sporrans they are a small "man bag" that one wears at the waist of a kilt.

Like a ghost story? This next room is the one for you. Although, I'm not sure how I feel about the harp reference! (I started playing in Junior High and one still sits in my living room.)

MacArthur Room 

"The ghostly bed in this room is elaborately carved and belonged to the MacArthurs of Loch Awe. Legend has it that a young Irish harpist was murdered by the Duke of Montrose's men in 1644. The bed was moved to the present castle from the old Inveraray Castle and the boy's ghost was so attached to the bed it travelled with it. When a member of the family is about to die, it is said that harp music is heard coming from the room."

The castle has a number of ghosts including the 'Grey Lady', only seen by daughters of a Duke of Argyll, a floating ship or ‘Galley of Lorne' which moves away on the horizon on the death of the Duke and a raucous kitchen maid."

My favorite part of the castle was this next room which is called the "Victorian Room" which was a lovely eclectic living space. Love that carved chair!

"The Victorian Room is a tribute to the marriage between HRH Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria and the Marquess of Lorne, who subsequently became the 9th Duke ... items on display include a porcelain figure of Queen Victoria at her spinning wheel, sculpted by Princess Louise, a talented artist and sculptor. There are also two intriguing pieces of furniture converted from an old coach presented by the Duke of Sutherland to the 8th Duke of Argyll."

"The marriage was considered controversial at the time, as it was the first time a member of the Royal Family had married outside royalty but Queen Victoria wanted new blood in the family and suggested a member of the aristocracy. Princess Louise fell in love with John, Marquess of Lorne and the Queen consented to the marriage, which took place on 21st of March 1871."

O you'll tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road

And I'll be in Scotland afore ye,

For me and my true love will ne-r meet again On the bonnie, bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond.

Loch Lomond 
Loch Loamainn ~ Lake of the Elms

After spending two weeks humming, singing and whistling On the Bonnie Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond, with my parents, driving around Scotland ... we finally made it. 

'Twas there that we parted in yon shady glen

On the steep, steep sides o' Ben Lomond

Where deep in purple hue, the hieland hills we view

And the moon comin' out in the gloaming'.

Arriving at Loch Lomond meant we were almost at the end of our journey and only 14 miles outside of Glasgow. Also, of possible interest, it's a fresh water loch and has the largest surface area of any lake in Great Britain. Just in case you were about to ask.

In honor of my folks and all the driving we did around Scotland, here is Deanna Durban (at 18!) singing the old Scottish song. It was in 1940.

Links

Historic Scotland Explorer Pass

Castle Stalker

Dunstaffnage Castle and Chapel

Inveraray Castle

Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park

The wee birdies sing and the wildflowers spring,
And in sunshine the waters are sleeping.
But the broken heart it kens nae second spring again,
Though the waeful may cease frae their grieving.

O ye'll tak' the high road, and I'll tak' the low road,
And I'll be in Scotland a'fore ye,
But me and my true love will never meet again,
On the bonnie, bonnie banks o' Loch Lomond.

~ first published in 1841

Next up Glasgow!

Blessings and light!

The Lantern of the North ~ Elgin Cathedral

The ornament of the realm, the glory of the kingdom,

the delight of foreigners and stranger guests,

an object of praise in foreign lands.

~Bishop Alexander Bur (1362-97) on Elgin Cathedral

Elgin Cathedral 

"The Lantern of the North"

Established 1224

After having spent the morning at Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns, we headed east near the coast for town of Elgin, in Moray Scotland. Because we had run out of time to see the ruins of the Border Cathedrals, I was not about to miss Elgin!

It's only 34 miles on the A96 and should have taken less than an hour from Culloden Moor. I'm not sure why but we hit some traffic and it took longer than we'd planned. 

                                                     

My Travel Journal

Anyway, when we arrived the nice man at the cathedral directed us to a place to park and eat. He did this while standing in the rain. I noticed this happened a lot in Scotland. You would go inside and ask for directions and they'd follow you out and stand there in the rain giving you directions. It cracked me up! Why not stand in the doorway? I'm guessing they are used to it but it was still amusing.

Anyway, he directed us into the park next to the Cathedral for tea and snacks and then we walked back over. I've mentioned in previous posts the Historic Scotland Explorer Pass. This is another landmark in which that pass gives you entry. It was definitely worth it!

A beautiful Gaelic lament for the post. Please press play.

Elgin Cathedral was dedicated to the Holy Trinity and was the principal church of the bishops of Moray.  The Land was granted by King Alexander II (King of Scots from 1214-1249) close to the River Lossie. 

It was expanded and rebuilt after fires in the late 13th and 14th centuries but it was abandoned after the Scottish Reformation of 1560. The lead that waterproofed the roof was removed 7 years later and then it began to fall into a state of ruin. 

Even in its present state of ruin you can see it is one of Scotland's most beautiful medieval architectural works. Somehow the weather during our visit made it feel even more lovely and poetic.

From Historic Environment Scotland:

"The monumentally impressive building dominated the flat and fertile Laich of Moray from the time it was built. It continued to do so even after its demise at the Protestant Reformation of 1560.

Work began on the cathedral in the first half of the 1200s, but it is the product of three main building phases. Even as a ruin, the cathedral still boasts plenty of detail that tells of its development and embellishment.

Cont.

The cathedral was once richly carved and adorned with stained glass and painted decoration. A fine collection of architectural fragments hints at the building’s lost beauty, while documentary evidence sheds light on religious life at Elgin. The cathedral was the spiritual heart of the diocese of Moray."

When you enter into the cathedral there is an exhibition of old stonework and this guy below, if you craned your neck, had all his anatomical parts. It was too dimly lit for a photo so you'll have to use your imagination! (Besides, wouldn't that be unseemly?)

An old Pictish stone from the 800s found nearby!

from Canmore.org 

Face A bears a cross on a broad rectangular plinth, which effectively divides the face into two panels. The cross is outlined by roll mouldings, including its central disc, and the small circular armpits are sunken. The cross is filled with interlinking panels of zoomorphic interlace, but the basal plinth appears to have been plain. In the background are four evangelists with their symbols. Below the cross is a single panel filled with four intertwined and biting quadrupeds.

The view from the other side. It's hard to see the carvings here so I included a link at the bottom of this post with illustrations of the symbols on the stone.

Cont. 
At the top of the single panel on face C is a square containing back-to-back pairs of double spirals, flanked by serpentine motifs, above two ornate Pictish symbols: double disc and Z-road above crescent and V-rod. Below them is a hunting scene, facing left, with at least four horsemen, one of them armed, with the pre-eminent rider at the top with a bird of prey behind him on his out-stretched left arm. A large bird, perhaps the prey, stands in front of the rider’s horse. There is also a stag being harried by a hound, and at least two other hounds."

Apparently, you can walk up stairs into that front part of the church (above) for a view of the ruins and of the town but we were content to wander in the ruins until they closed up for the day.

There were only a few visitors that day and it was nice to be there when it was so quiet. It felt like a sacred space.

The Chapter House

There was medieval music playing inside. It felt very mystical!

My mom and I stood by the center column, closed our eyes and sang an "om" into the rafters ...

She took this photo of me (below). In fact, some of these photos were hers. I'd ended up using my iPhone quite a bit and she would take the big Digital SLR camera to shoot with.

And then we were off again, through the park ...

The park was lush and wet with pretty blooms ...

Elgin looked like a cute town to explore and just south are the Scotch distilleries of Speyside. In fact, there are busses you can take down to some of the distilleries so if you are staying in Elgin that would be safe way to go. The drinking and driving laws in Scotland are very strict!

We headed back to Inverness in the rain. It was our last night in the area before heading west to the Isle of Skye so it was a perfect evening for an incredible dinner at Rocpool. Quite possibly our best meal of the trip! (Don't forget to call ahead for a reservation!)

As I mentioned in my first post of the Highlands, I felt I could live there for a while, in Inverness. I hope that I can go back one day.

Links:
Elgin Cathedral- Historic Environment Scotland
Pictish Slab - Canmore.org
Explorer Pass - Historic Scotland

Sorry for the absence, by the way! I got very sidetracked! My next post will be leaving Inverness, an authentic Highland Games and the glorious drive through Glen Shiel!

Blessings and light!