Borgia Apartments, Amazing Matisse and Pinacoteca ~ Musei Vaticani part II

The Borgia Apartments

Over the top and fabulous, is what I would expect of a ceiling, in the Borgia Apartments. And, that's exactly what I got! As you can see, they are doing restorations on the beautiful frescoes.

The frescoes were done by Bernardo di Betto, called il Pinturicchio, a who studied with Raphael, under Perugino. 

After Pope Alexander VI (1492-1503) died, work on the apartments ceased and his successor, Julius II (Giuliano della Rovere,) closed them off, not to be reopened until the late 1800s! To say he wasn't a fan of the Borgia Pope, would be a gigantic understatement. Anyway, in 1973, the Borgia Apartments began to house the Vatican's collection of modern religious art.

The Encounter Between St. Anthony Abbot and St. Paul the Hermit

Hall of Saints, Borgia Apartments, 1492-94

Pinturiccio

Here is a gorgeous Vivaldi violin concerto for you, for your visit ...

How fabulous are these floors?! That Borgia Pope wasn't kidding around, with his renovations. Yes, it's nauseating when you think of all those poor peasants, outside the walls  of the Vatican, while Pope Alexander (Rodrigo de Borgia ) was walking around on these fabulous tiles, in his little pope slippers ... but you have to appreciate the gorgeous design and artistry!

I'm not sure if this particular display of sculptures, below, are always on view but it was quite a beautiful contrast of old and new. And, with the lighting it was quite dramatic!

Bianca, 1938

Francesco Messina 

polychrome terracotta

The Disputation of St. Catherine

Pinturicchio

It is said that Catherine was modeled after Lucrezia Borgia and the guy in the Turban, on the left, was Alexander's son Cesare.

La Maddalena, 1953 

Francesco Messina 1900 -1995

Bronze

The Assumption of the Virgin

Hall of Saints

Borgia Apartments, 15th Century

Pinturiccio

Anna alla finestra (Anna at the window,) 1939

Giovanni Prini 1877 -1958

I was so taken with these sculptures, in this exquisite space, and there was hardly anyone around. I guess, they were all headed to Sistine Chapel. I only saw a handful of people really take in these beautiful rooms, before moving on.

The Nativity Fresco (on right) 1492-94

The Annunciation (left)

Hall of the Mysteries of Faith, Borgia Apartments

Pinturiccio

Il Colosseo, 1972

Renato Guttuso, 1911 -1987 

As I mentioned in the previous post, seeing some of the contemporary work, in the museum, was quite refreshing. The following room was even more so. It was like lifting a lid off my brain and letting the moths fly out. It felt almost Zen in it's simplicity. 

La Sala Matisse

I didn't remember this room from when I was there before, and it turns out it was unveiled in June of 2011. The large pieces are preparatory sketches by Matisse, that he made for the The Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary, in Vence, on the French Riviera. The art was donated by the artist's son, Pierre Matisse.

Sketch for stain glass window.

 

Apparently, the following sculpture was too heavy to move, but somehow it works beautifully in the room.

Madonna

Lucio Fontana, 1899-1968

After the Borgia Apartments, you end up in the Sistine Chapel. Of course, it's incredible and of course, you can't take pictures. I stayed for a while, after getting one of the bench seats along the side of the chapel. I also took in the beauty of the other works, not only Michelangelo's Ceiling and The Last Judgement, but other important works by artists like Botticelli, Signorelli, Rosselli, and Perugino (the famous painting of Jesus handing over the keys to Peter.) 

Oh, and Michelangelo did NOT paint the ceiling lying on his back! He was in a standing position. This, to me, is much worse, because imagine the crick in your neck from looking up, for hours on end! Just saying.

The Pinacoteca

The Painting Gallery

Madonna col Bambino e i Santi Onofrio, Nicol,

Bartolomeo e Giovanni Evangelista, 1371

Giovanni Bonsi, Florence

Il Redentore Benedicente, 1315-1320

Simone Martini, Siena

To tell the truth, old, gothic, religious panels, used to creep me out. But, then I went to Florence in 1996, and somehow all those feelings evaporated, and it all came together for me. I can't really explain it, but being in Italy and seeing them there, put these works in context for me. 

No, it's not my absolute favorite time period for art, but I gained an appreciation for these symbols of faith, the purpose of the iconography and the craft of making these beautiful objects. They must have been so amazing for people to see, in that time, in old Gothic churches ... candles lit and incense burning ... trying to make sense of the world. 

The Stefaneschi Triptych

Created for the high altar in the old St. Peter's Basilica

1320-1325

Giotto di Bondone and assistants 

(In the middle panel, in red, is Saint Peter)

Below, is the reverse of the triptych, with Christ in the center, an the martyrdoms of Peter, on the left panel, and Paul on the right.

Coronation of the Virgin, with angels, saints and donors,1444

Filipo Lippi, (Florence 1406 - Spoleto 1469) 

These paintings, below, were quite small. Maybe 8 x 10"? There was something about them ... I was just taken. Enchanted even. I don't even know who painted them. Not sure if the information was on the wall, or not. 

I must have thought the artist's name was on the frame, but it just indicates they are of the Florentine School, and the subject matter.

The Birth of Saint John 

The Florentine School

The Visitation (with Mary and Elizabeth)

Florentine School

Madonna del Davanzale

Bernardino di Betto, called il Pinuricchio, 1454-1513

Raffaello Sanzio

Urbino 1483 - Rome 1520

Madonna of Foligno, 1511-1512 (left)

Transfiguration, 1516 - 1520 (center)

Coronation of the Virgin, 1502 -1503 (right)

Detail from the Transfiguration. Look at the gorgeous robes of Moses on the right! And, that beautiful figure, below, shielding his eyes from the light ... 

Below, a detail of Saint Francis, from the Madonna of Foligno

Il Seppellimento di Cristo (The burial of Christ)

Giovanni Bellini, 1430 -1516

Il Redentore, (The Redeemer) 1522

Antonio Allegri called il Correggio, (1489 - 1534)

St. Jerome, unfinished

Leonardo di Vinci

La Fama (Fame)

Alessandro Varotari, called Padovanino

(1588-1648)

And here are two of my favorites ...

The Entombment of Christ, 1602 -1603

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, (1571-1610)

Saint Matthew The Evangelist 

Guido Reni, 1585 -1642

After the painting gallery, I had a little time left, which is when I went to the carriage museum, which I wrote about here.

A very wet Saint Peter's Square ...

After meeting meeting up with my Instagram friend Laura, I was so tired, but knew I should eat something. It had been many hours since my pig out at Pizzarium. I took the metro back to the Barberini station and near my little hotel found this cute little restaurant, called Sofie.

I was so tired but the ladies who worked there were very sweet. I just ordered a little salad and some grilled veggies. I don't think I even ordered wine.

And then I was off to bed. I'd been in Rome for a week and there was still so much to see and do! ... The Cappuccini museum, The Church of San Clemente, Maxxi, and the best gelato I've ever had! All in the next two days, before heading to Umbria.

Here is a very short video about the opening of the Matisse Room ...

Have an amazing beautiful weekend!!!

Blessings and light!

Pizzarium and the Gods ~ A Day at the Musei Vaticani (and my 4 year blog birthday!)

I just remembered, that I recently passed my 4 year blog birthday! I can't believe it! Thank you, to those of you who take the time to come on here and allow me share with you! And, to all of you who share with me ... this amazing blogging world of communing and creativity!

To celebrate ... let's have a slice of pizza!

Yum!

This is my favorite pizza place, in Rome ...

Piazzarium!!!

 

It's behind metro station Cipro, which is West, and a little North, of the Vatican Museums. So pig out and give yourself plenty of sustenance, so you can make it through the museum. At least, that is what I was telling myself ... and I'm happy to say, it worked. 

They say the place gets very crowded, but I got there a little after 11am on Tuesday morning and it was fine. Oh, and it might be closed on Sunday. I was getting different information, so check before you go.

This, below, is what it looked like, before it was popped it in the oven ... drizzled in olive oil.

And ... what it looked like, out of the oven (below, on the left.) The one on the right was very spicy, but good. The one on the left, was so good, it makes me want to cry, to think of it. 

One of the best things I've ever tasted in my life. So, yes, I recommend Pizzarium. You stand around and eat, and they cut off whatever size you want ... it's delicious. 

I'd been to the Vatican Museums, on my first trip to Rome, in 2008. We didn't have a lot of time, and let me tell you, you need it. It's awful to have to rush by so many masterpieces, so if you can, give yourself the day ... after you have your pizza, that is. 

Hopefully, I have names right for the various gods, goddesses and emperors, in the following photos. It was difficult to keep track and some have very little information about them.

Here, is some beautiful music by Italian/German composer Giovanni Girolamo Kapsperger (1580 -1651.) It's nice to have some Vatican Museum background music ... and don't you just love a lute? :)

The Vatican Museums

Emperor Antonius Pius

Reign 138 - 161 AD

There are so many ancient Roman Statues. I was almost relieved one of the halls was blocked off. There is just no way to see it all, and it gets overwhelming. So, take your time and see what you can.

Statue of Athena

The Octagonal Court

It was raining in this courtyard, which somehow seemed beautiful and appropriate. Especially, with Arno the river god present. You'll see him shortly.

River God (Arno)

170-180 AD

(Doesn't he look a little melancholy?)

Lacoön

c 40-30 BC

Suicide of Cleopatra

(see the snake on her arm?)

Hall of Animals

 "The Stone Zoo." 

Pope Pius VI (1775-1799 AD) put this group of animals from antiquity together.

Hall of Muses

Statue of Erato, muse of hymns and love songs

Belvedere Torso 

Probably the Greek hero Ajax

1st century B.C.

Athenian sculptor Apollonios

(This ancient statue is said to have been a huge inspiration to artists, including Michelangelo.)

What spirit is so empty and blind,
that it cannot recognize the fact
that the foot is more noble than the shoe,
and skin more beautiful than the garment
with which it is clothed.
~Michelangelo 

Round Hall
The standing figure is The Braschi Antinous
2nd century A.D.

Colossal Head of Jupiter (Zeus) from Otricoli

Statue of a flute player

There is so much to see ... you eventually have to move on from the Ancient Roman world ...

Syria-Palestine from Middle Bronze Age
To the Roman Period 2000 BC - 394 AD

Below, detail from the amazing Gallery of Maps (1536-1586) frescoes, by Dante Ignazio
This one is Liguria
Here is shot of the Hall

Raphael Rooms
Done by Raffaello Sanzio (1483-1520) and his school
Below, looking up at School of Athens

Triumph of Christian Religion
Ceiling of Room of Constantine 
by Tommaso Laureti

(You can see the statue of the Pagan idol has fallen to the ground, broken, below the standing crucifix.)

The Pope who commissioned these frescoes, for his "apartments," was Julius II. He hired a young Raphael for the job, and he's also known for hiring Michelangelo to do the Sistine Chapel. (Anyone see The Agony and the Ecstasy? Pope Julius II will always look a lot like Rex Harrison to me.)

You can see how Pope Julius II, is trying to "out do" his rival, and predecessor, Pope Alexander's "Borgia Apartments." (We'll get to those in another post.)

Carved wood window ...

Some of the frescos were not on view, because they are currently having restorations, like this wall in the Room of Heliodorus.

Details from the "Popes' Apartments," by Raphael and his school

Ceiling of Room of the Segnatura 

Disputation of the Holy Sacrament

These rooms are truly staggering ... you are enveloped in art, so completely and beautifully, it's almost too much to take in!

The ceiling of the Room of Fire, below, is by Perugino (1508.) Raphael refused to paint over it. Good call Mr. Sanzio!

Every beauty 

which is seen here below by persons

of perception 

resemble more than anything else

that celestial source from which we all are come ...

~Michelangelo

Just another ornate hall and ceiling, on the way to more incredible art.

Below, is an amazing Roman mosaic, from antiquity. Yes, ... a mosaic! Amazing, right?

The Three Wreaths Emblema
Hadrianic age, from Hadrian's Villa in Tivoli

Lovely stained glass ... unfortunately, I don't know the artist, and no one else online seems to either, but I read it was a gift from the French to one of the Popes.

A nice break comes, when you get to some work from last century and a half. Even with the subject matter, it was a breath of fresh air, and it felt good to mix things up a little, after days of living with Medieval and Renaissance martyrs.

Il Precursore
Giulio Aristide Sartorio
1927-28

Medardo Rosso

Aetas Aurea, 1886

Messe Matinale

Maurice Denis 

1890

Idea for Crucifixion sculpture, 1954

Henry Moore

Pietà (after Delacroix) 1889

Vincent Van Gogh

(love this!!!)

Here's a little Vatican information and History, courtesy of Rick Steve's ... at 4:13 he goes in the museum.

I found a great blog post about Pizzarium, with a lot more photos and info, so if you want to check it out, click here, and if that's not enough for you, there is another one here.

The true work of art 

is but a shadow of 

the divine perfection.

~Michelangelo 

Blessing and light!!!