Showing posts with label The Quiraing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Quiraing. Show all posts

Thursday, December 20, 2018

Painting the Isle of Skye, My Solo Show and Wee Bit of Scottish History


Speed bonnie boat like a bird on the wing,
Onward, the sailors cry.
Carry the lad that's born to be king
Over the sea to Skye.

Quiraing, Isle of Skye 2017



I can't believe it's been since September that I've posted! I spent many hours getting ready for my solo show Through Time and Place: Five Decades which opened on December 2nd. The opening reception was one week before my 50th birthday.

As you might surmise from the title, my paintings represented 50 years of places I've been in my life. I focused on places that touched me in some way. Some were places I lived and other were traveling or on pilgrimage. There were 32 in all and the piece above was one of them.


Loud the winds howl, loud the waves roar,
Thunderclaps rend the air,
Baffled our foes stand by the shore,
Follow they will not dare.


When I last posted on this blog, I told the story of my incredible hike up to the Old Man of Storr. After coming down the mountain, I was cold, famished and needed a restroom! I'd read about a hotel north of the Storr and as luck would have it, it was on our way to our next destination.


The Flodigarry Hotel
A Victorian Hunting Lodge Built in 1892 for Maj. R. Macdonald


This bar was highly rated but when we arrived it was packed so we went and had lunch in the lovely restaurant. Of course, by the time we finished our lunch the bar was nearly empty. It's all about timing!



I'd been wanting to try something called "Cullen Skink Soup." Though the name might sound less than appetizing, the soup was incredibly delicious. It's a very lightly smoked fish soup with a cream base. SO good. I also had some salad and Talisker 10 year. Talisker, by the way, is the only distillery on Skye, but more on that later.


The soup was hot, delicious and perfect after a hike in the drizzling rain!


The hotel had a lovely sitting room and had we been staying there, I think it would have been difficult to get me to leave this room!


I can imagine sitting there for hours sketching and looking out to the sea ...



One reason I wanted to stop at this hotel was the Flora Macdonald Cottage, where you can actually stay! (Someday!!!)  It was her home early in her marriage, from 1751-1756.


Flora was the courageous lady who dressed up Bonnie Prince Charlie as an Irish spinning maid named Betty Burke after the Battle of Culloden (1746) to help him escape the British Army! She went to jail but eventually was released and became a heroine to the Jacobites. She moved to America but eventually moved back to the Isle Skye.

The Major, for whom the hunting lodge (now Flodigarry Hotel) was built for, was a descendant of Flora Macdonald. 


Someone was staying in the cottage but at least we got to see the outside!

And speaking of the Bonnie Prince's escape to Skye, that is the subject of the Skye Boat Song! (Which is now used as the Theme to Outlander but you'll note the different words!)

Press play for this beautiful version of the Skye Boat Song, sung by Laura Wright.





 After walking the grounds of the hotel we headed to the very North of the Isle of Skye ...



Though the waves leap, soft shall ye sleep,
Ocean's a royal bed.
Rock'd in the deep Flora will keep
Watch o'er your weary head.


There is a small "Museum of Island Life" where you can see how people used to live on the Island. It was closed that day but we were still able to see the beautiful stone structures.




Behind it was Kilmuir Cemetery, which was what I had really wanted to see!

Grave of Angus Martin ... said to have stolen the headstone of a king for himself!



Burned are our homes, exile and death,

Scattered the loyal man.
Yet ere the sword, cool in the sheath,
Charlie will come again.




But I didn't come for Angus  ... I came because Kilmuir is where you find the grave and monument to Flora Macdonald.



You know it's windy when your hair goes sideways. It was howling! In the distance you see the ocean. One of my favorite designers is also buried in Kilmuir. Alexander McQueen. It felt fitting that I was in my Stewart tartan shawl.


The image I decided to use on the postcard for my solo show was the very first painting I did in the series. The painting is from a photo I took on my first trip to Edinburgh in 1990. It took me a long time to figure out where exactly it was taken. I couldn't remember but alas with the help of the internet I finally figured it out. 

It was a home designed by James Craig in the 1700s. He was the architect who designed the New Town, in Edinburgh. This structure became the city's observatory until the very Paladian one that was established in 1776 took on the job. The 1776 one also happens to be where my coworker Siri worked years ago. How cool is that? This original "Observatory House" was built in the 1700s on Calton Hill and I have read that you can now rent it out for events. Can you imagine?

"Edinburgh, Scotland 1990"
11 x 14"
Oil on Wood panel
600.00



My paintings for the solo show were all on wood panels. As you can see, I start with a very loose underpainting.


Then laying in more color, I started figuring out where I might want to do some silver leaf that would integrate into the painting and even enhance it a bit.



"Isle of Skye"
6 x 12"
(sold)



The reception felt like a huge success. There was a great energy and so many surprise guests, friends and family showed up. There was a lot of love in that room! On top of that I sold 17 paintings that evening, which was very exciting and quite unexpected! A few more have sold since then so there are 11 of the 32 still available.

I'll post more of the paintings and reception, as well as more Scotland soon! This time it won't be 3 months! Hoping to post again for Christmas about the Fairy Glen!

Speed bonnie boat like a bird on the wing,
Onward, the sailors cry.
Carry the lad that's born to be king
Over the sea to Skye.
~ Skye Boat Song
Lyrics by Sir Harold Boulton (b. 1859)


Links

Friday, August 24, 2018

Eilean Donan and Over the Sea to Skye - Magic Hour on Kilt Rock the Quiraing


Somewhere along the Scottish coast
And emerald island lies
And I will steer my sailing boat
Unto the Isle of Skye
~Andrew Peterson


Eilean Donan Castle


We'd left Inverness that morning and had already been to a highland games and driven through beautiful Glen Shiel. We were almost to the Isle of Skye but had to make one last stop! It's one of the most famous images of Scotland ... Eilean Donan.


My Travel Journal



The tide was high and so was the sun, so it wasn't exactly the optimal time for photographing the castle but still ... 


From their official website:

"The name Eilean Donan, or island of Donan, is most probably called after the 6th century Irish Saint, Bishop Donan who came to Scotland around 580 AD. There are several churches dedicated to Donan in the area and it is likely that he formed a small cell or community on the island during the late 7th century.

The first fortified structure was not built on the island until the early 13th century as a defensive measure, protecting the lands of Kintail against the Vikings who raided, settled and controlled much of the North of Scotland and the Western Isles between 800 and 1266. ...Over the centuries, the castle itself has expanded and contracted in size.


...Eilean Donan also played a role in the Jacobite risings of the 17th and 18th centuries, which ultimately culminated in the castle’s destruction…For the best part of 200 years, the stark ruins of Eilean Donan lay neglected, abandoned and open to the elements, until Lt Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap bought the island in 1911. Along with his Clerk of Works, Farquar Macrae, he dedicated the next 20 years of his life to the reconstruction of Eilean Donan, restoring her to her former glory. The castle was rebuilt according to the surviving ground plan of earlier phases and was formally completed in the July of 1932."


It was a warm afternoon by Scotland's standards but even so we stopped for coffee in the visitor's center. There was also a good size gift shop. Not a bad view, eh?

My dad took this of me up on rock ...


It felt so nice walking out in the sunshine after being in the car and having a bit of crazy weather in and around Inverness.


If the castle seems familiar, it's been in many films including Highlander, James Bond-The World is Not Enough, Elizabeth the Golden Age and others. I believe it's also been on a whole host of items including cookie tins and postcards. You can tour the inside or even have a wedding there! Can you imagine?

We left the loveliness of the castle and went round a bend expecting that that was our last stop but then ...


Yet another beautiful view! I took probably 80 photos from this vantage point of the castle!  That would include this selfie with my iPhone -in my Edinburgh hat and Clan Cameron Scarf! (It was my Christmas Card last year.)




What could be more fitting music than the Skye Boat Song? Some of you may know the tune as the theme to Outlander but with different words. It's actually an old song about Bonnie Prince Charlie going "Over the Sea to Skye ...!" In fact, when I first watched Outlander I thought that sounds familiar. Well, I'd played the song on the harp when I was a wee lass! Well, maybe 11 or 12. 

This version is without lyrics but is so beautiful and gets me a little weepy. It also goes perfect with the scenery!




The weather on Skye as we drove onto the island was dreamy and magic hour seemed to stretch on and on! After you cross over the big Skye Bridge and drive along the main road you will come upon two smaller bridges side by side. The first you drive over ...


And if I recall correctly, most people just walk over the second.




As you can see, our first views of Skye were stunning!



Look at the beautiful heather!

Because we had such beautiful skies we took advantage of the moment! I'd seen the forecast for a blustery following day so I didn't want to take a chance on losing out on this glorious light! So, we blew past the town of Portree and our little AirBnB and continued on the little road north.


We stopped at Kilt Rock which is named for the sea the cliffs that look like pleats of a kilt! I couldn't quite see the bottom of the falls without falling over the rail so I stuck with this view! Not bad!


Across the road from the cliffs and sea ...


We then hopped back in the car to see if we could make it to the Quiraing before the sun went down! I had seen photos of it, films of it, and even helped a student who brought a Googled image do an acrylic painting of it!


We found a sign for the Quiraing and got on a rather small one lane road. "Are you sure this is right?" my dad asked. "Um, I don't know but ... let's see!"


We met some fuzzy friends along the way but the Quiraing is famous for its incredibly beautiful geological formations.


I love this photo below and had a few friends remark, that because the plant life look like miniature trees, the sheep looks enormous!


This next shot is out the windshield.You can see the road going up up up! We were hoping we were almost there and also hoping no one was heading back down!


Oh, hello.


And then .... tadaaaaaa!!! 



It was everything I hoped for. It was magnificent.


At this point, after taking in one of the most gorgeous views on the planet, we remembered we had a dinner reservation and had to get back to Portree. The summer is very VERY busy on Skye and so are the restaurants. On top of that, don't expect to find a last minute place to stay in the summer months. Many months ahead all the hotels were booked (except for some very swanky 5 star joints). We were lucky to find our AirBnB. So, plan ahead unless you want to just spend the day ... or bring a tent.

Our dinner was at Cuchullin Restaurant down in the main little square.



By the way, the Skye Red Ale was delicious. I think I had mussels and a fish cake. I remember whatever we had was great but I had such anticipation for my hike the next morning that it's a bit of a blur!


OH! And I've been so busy I forgot to mention I'm getting ready for a solo show in December! It's called "Over Time and Place: Five Decades." The latter part of the title referencing my birthday I'll be having exactly one week after my show. 

Anyway, I've gotten started on this piece which, coincidentally, I worked on last night and today! More work to do but the bones are there.


Links

That's it for now! I can't believe I was in Scotland a year ago! Yep, I left for Scotland in August. Right now I'd be heading to Inverness. 

My next post is of my hike up to the Old Man of Storr! Definitely one of my biggest highlights of that trip ... or any trip!

Hope you are all doing well!
Blessings and light!