400th Post! Pasta and Piazza Navona!

Ciao Tutti! I can't believe it's my 400th post! 

To celebrate, let's have a little vino rosso, pasta and enjoy a little festa, at Piazza Navona!

It was a Saturday night and had I met up with a friend of a friend, Inta, who'd moved to Rome a year ago. She met me at my little "Golden Rooms" and we headed Southwest toward Piazza Navona. She suggested Enoteca Cul de Sac ... and, it happened that I had been there in 2010 with my folks! They had a great wine selection and I loved their homemade ravioli!

So ... I ordered ravioli again. :) Oh, how I love a good ravioli! This time it was duck, which I don't usually order but it was really good. 

The wine was so good on the previous trip, that I went on my iPhone, and looked at my blog post, from a couple of years ago, to see what I had ordered. And they still had it on the menu! Handy, these blogs of ours!

Inta ordered a meat platter ... very tasty with the wine!

We sat outside under an awning, while it rained around us. As usual, people were standing around waiting for tables. Fortunately, we got there just before the rush.

Here's the inside of the restaurant. They have a HUGE wine selection. To see my other post about Cul de Sac, click HERE.

Mmmmmmmm ....

Before going on the trip, I tried to find out if all the booths and carousel would be up, in Piazza Navona, when I was there, but it was it was unclear. As I mentioned, a lot of decorations don't go up until the 6th or 7th. It was December 1st in Piazza Navona and ... see for yourself!

Piazza Navona! 
Buon Natale!

OH, and I have to mention that on my two previous trips to Rome, the big Fountain of the Four Rivers by Bernini, in the middle of the piazza, had been covered in scaffold both times! But now?

Yay! The fountain was in full view!

The venders set up all along the piazza, except for in front of Borromini's Church of St. Agnes.

I loved all the nativity pieces and  was looking for a baby Jesus. I have Mary and Joseph but the baby Jesus I had was way to small for the set. In fact, so small, he looked like a premie. So, I was on a hunt for a (reasonably priced) baby Baby Gesù, of a certain size.

Lots of sparkly Christmas ornaments ...

Pile o' nougat ... which I got for my sister. (not the whole pile, just the coffee flavor.)

Perfect Baby Gesù, but only came in a set ...

There were TONS of Befanas! So, choosing the right little Befanas (Sort of an Italian Christmas witch) for members of my family, became another fun hunt! I actually ended up with a "bag o' Befana" ... But more on the little witch later!

On our way back to my little "hotel," we rounded a corner, and there it was! NOW it really felt like I was in Rome. The Pantheon. There is nothing like it. 

Inta suggested we stop and have a drink. We had the perfect view. The shot above was taken from our table! A much easier table to get with the wet weather! The awnings, once again, protected us from the downpour. I can't remember the name of her drink, but I had a limoncello and chatted, and enjoyed the wonderful view. Thanks Inta! 

It was great to get out and be social, and have someone to chat with! I am someone who doesn't mind spending time alone. Sometimes, I might even prefer it. But, by this time, it was really nice to have someone to hang out with. All the chatting inside your own head can get old, even though I'm pretty good company. ;)

Oh! And I found my baby Gesù! I put him on my bedside table in Assisi. I brought him home, and he's the perfect size.

On Facebook, Marianne Williamson posted something, that I want to pass on to you. Jean Houston had shared this quote. Victor Hugo claimed Galileo spoke to him in a seance! Whatever you think about that, and whether it was Galileo who said it or Mr. Hugo that wrote it, it's ... well, read for yourself! 

"You know what I would do if I were in your place? 
I'd drink from the milk basin of the Milky Way;
I'd swallow comets; I'd lunch on dawn; 
I'd dine on day and I'd sup on night;
I'd invite myself, splendid table-companion that I am, 
to the banquet of all the glories,
and I'd salute God as my host!
I'd work up a magnificent hunger, an enormous thirst, 
and I'd race through the drunken spaces between the spheres 
singing the fearsome drinking song of eternity."

Happy St. Patty's Day!
Blessings and light!

St. John Lateran, the Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum

If you are what you should be, 

you will set the world ablaze!

~Saint Catherine of Sienna

Arcibasilica Papale di San Giovanni in Laterno

The Papal Archbasilica of St. John Lateran

It's huge and it's the first of four Papal Basilicas of Rome. It's the official seat of the Bishop of Rome, who also happens to be the Pope. So, for that reason, as a cathedral, it ranks above all other churches in the Catholic Church ... even St. Peter's! (Thanks Wikipedia!)

Strange to be writing this right now, realizing it's currently a church without a bishop! 

I took the metro system down there, because it was way too far to walk. I'd already walked around that morning, been to Sant'Andrea delle Fratte (to see Bernini's angels), snacked on some sort of salami I'd gotten at the little market, scarfed down a power bar  ... and I was off to St. John! 

I knew it would be big ... but it was HUGE. In the photo above, that I actually took on my way out, you can sort of see a silhouette of a person, next to the small, middle/left column. Yes, he's tiny. That's how big the Basilica is!

OK, here is some Italian Baroque to go with the post ...

This photo below is in the portico, before entering the basilica. Everyone say hello to Emperor Constantine! 

Constantine, Roman 4th Century

And this, below, is the nave. Imagine that there are also two big aisles on either side of this and then huge chapels off of those! I took so many pictures, I could have done several posts, just on this church. At one point, I narrowed it down and there were still 54 photos! I edited way down from that, so I guess you'll just have to visit someday! 

The original church was consecrated in 324! The Laterani family had owned the property and after somehow getting on the outs with Rome, had it confiscated. Emperor Constantine, who you just said hello to, gave the property to the church and allowed the Pope to set up shop here, after 312. O.K., "set up shop" isn't exactly the term but you get the picture. 

In case you're curious, the church measures 130 x 54 meters. (426 by 177 feet or ... 142 yards by 59 yards)

The current ceiling, you see here, was built in the 1700s.

Popes lived in the old Lateran palace next door, until pope Clement V, when the whole "Avignon drama" happened. He moved to Avignon, in what is now modern day France, in 1309. At least, it all seemed pretty dramatic in art history class. You might want to read up on that. Anyway, after that, when the papacy came back to Rome, it was to the Vatican Palace.

The church was built and rebuilt over the centuries, due to earthquakes, fires and upgrades. One of the big remodels was commissioned by Pope Innocent X, in 1649, when the whole place was ready to collapse. Fortunately, he had our old friend Francesco Borromini, who did work on Sant'Andrea delle Fratte and my personal favorite San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, to turn to!

The niches, which Borromini created in the nave, were later filled by huge sculptures of the Evangelists and Apostles, but not until during the time of Pope Clement XI. (1701-1721) 

Saint Phillip (check out his foot on the head of the dragon!) by Giuseepe Mazzuoli, 1715

Above each statue you can see a relief, depicting biblical scenes, done in the 1600s. Above each relief, are small oval paintings of the prophets. 

St. Matthew by Comillo Rusconi, 1715
Relief - Christ entering Limbo by G.F. Rossi

The Gothic high altar is quite beautiful and ornate, with lovely frescos and gilding. It was made in 1367 by Giovanni di Stefano. (Don't worry, there won't be a quiz!) In that area above,  that looks a bit like a birdcage, there is a relic chamber with the heads of St. Peter and Paul, and little statues of them. ... Although, I thought Peter was under St. Peter's ... but that must be his body?

Anyway, moving on! Isn't it so pretty?!

Frescos by Barna di Siena

Looking back from next to the altar, an incredible view ...

Organ designed by Luca Lasi and G.B Montano

1598

 

Frescoed scenes of the Life of Constantine

Late 1500s by Pomeracio, Paris Nogari and G.B. Ricci

The Altar of the Blessed Sacrament, below, is said to enshrine the table from the last supper. I'm not sure how they figured this out, or who saved the table from going to a flea market, but they sure did a nice job on the shrine! 

So, make this story even wilder ... the columns were taken from the Temple of Jupiter on the Capitol, which had been recast in bronze, from the prows of Cleopatra's ships. (Courtesy of a battle with Emperor Augustus.) Crazy right? I love Rome.

Seriously, everything has a story here.

Altar of the Blessed Sacrament 

by Pier Paolo Olivieri 1600 

 

The floor was from the 14th century and paid for by the Colonna family and completed in 1425. Isn't it amazing?! I think that 's the family crest of the Colonna family, in the middle. 

I would venture to guess that Michelangelo's great friend Vittoria Colonna (a renaissance poet and writer) was from that same powerful family. She had some serious pull ... but that's another mini-series.

Borromini was smart to leave the floor. Just gorgeous.

Out the left side of the church, if you pay the 8 or so Euro for the headphones, you can go into the cloister as well, which dates to the 13th century. All around the cloister are Roman artifacts. I couldn't resist.

If I remember correctly, this chair was the first, literal seat of the pope but I'm guessing he had a pillow. Isn't it beautiful?

Here's a relic story for you. That red slab of stone, below? Apparently, Roman soldiers were placing bets, or playing a game of dice, for who would get Jesus' robes. I am going by memory, so I might be a little off, but basically that was the gist of it. 

I walked into this room, off the cloister. The photo's a little blurry, but I couldn't resist the Roman artifacts and vending machines together!

If you head across the street from the basilica, there is a building that houses something pretty amazing, and very important, to pilgrims who come from all over the world.

The Scala Santa

For me prayer is a surge of the heart, 
it is a simple look towards Heaven,
it is a cry of recognition and of love,
embracing both trial and joy.
~St. Therese of Lisieux

The Scala Santa, or Holy Staircase, is at the location that was the original papal palace from the time of Constantine, to the Pope's time in Avignon.

The stairs were brought here by Constantine's mother, Helena, from Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem in about 326. The 28 marble steps (now encased in wood) were climbed by Jesus, before he was crucified. There are places where there is glass, in place of the wood, in order to see his blood stains on the stairs. 

Pilgrims climb the steps, on their knees, in deep contemplation of the Passion. It was so moving to see all of these people move slowly up the steps. You can see the stories of Jesus, frescoed on the walls and the crucifiction at the top of the stairs.

These marble sculptures, are to the left an right of the Holy Steps

To the left and right of the Holy Steps, are stairways you can use to ascend on your feet, which is what I did. This takes you to the Sancta Sanctorum Chapel, which is directly behind that fresco at the top of the stairs.

Sancta Sanctorum

Above the altar it reads 

Non est in toto sactior orbe locus, 

There is no holier place in all the world.

There is more than one chapel in the building but this one is the oldest, and considered most holy. The Holy of Holies, it is called. 

I had to be escorted in and the lady stayed with me until I was ready to leave. I took my time and was waiting for a tour group to leave, so I could get up to the altar without getting in the way of their view. It never happened, and my companion told me to just go for it and get up there ... so I did.

Above the altar ...

9th Century Mosaic 

Part of the reason it is considered so holy, is that it was the place used as the papal relic treasury, and it held a multitude of important relics, some of which are still there. It was also the personal chapel to the early Popes.

 Cosmati Frescoes in the 12th Century.

As I sat looking up at the ceiling and around the walls of the chapel, the Frescoes reminded me of the basilica of Saint Francis, in Assisi. The guide, for the tour group, was speaking Italian but I heard her mention the basilica in Assisi and it's artist, Giotto, and something about it being popular and one influencing the other. It was a little frustrating getting bits and pieces so I just sat back and tried to take it all in!

After that, I decided to go back in to San Giovanni for one more look. Here you can see one of the long aisles, that are to the left and right of the nave. There are big chapels off these large aisles, as well. The place is huge.

You can see something here that screams Borromini, so I'm guessing they were from his time working on the place. See the little serifs or cherubim, above the arches?  This is something he used a lot of in his work and I love them!

One more view ...

 

Ceiling above the altar by Taddeo Landini, 1592
Preserved by Francesco Borromini 

I was standing just behind the altar so it's upside down, but if you look closely, you'll see the bust of Christ in the middle.

I turned to the statue of Saint Peter with his keys and took this photo, below. I looked down at my digital screen and saw the light. Literally! ... right toward his raised hand! Wow.

St. Peter by Pierre Monnot, 1706

Thank goodness for the Internet, to fill in the memory gaps and info I didn't pick up while I was there.  Much of the info I needed, I got from Churches of Rome Wiki,  Wikipedia , and Sacred Destinations which you can check out, if you haven't already had enough! ;) Great resources if you are planning to travel, as well.

This is pretty cool too ... you can do a virtual visit of San Giovanni on the Vatican Website ... see all the chapels and use your mouse to move around each room. After hitting the link, click on one of the places in the left hand column, to choose a room or space in the church. :)

Here's a little BBC slideshow of the Restoration of the Frescoes in the Scala Santa, if you are interested.

Sorry about the watermark signature on my photos. Hope they're not too annoying. It's a different world out there now and it just has to be done.

Pray, Hope and Don't Worry.

~St. Pio of Pietrelcino

Hope you all have a wonderful week. 

My next post is food and witches! ;)

Blessings and light!